imcrzy8

Hello -

I have a 2009 CHEVY/HHR LS/2.2L L4 MPI DOHC 16V - manual transmission.

When I have been driving and then stop for a short time (at a store, getting gas, etc) where I turn the engine off for a few minutes and then start it back up and drive it runs like crap. Really rough idle and then the CEL lites up. I took it in to have codes read and it came up as P0010 and P0011.

It seems that it may have something to do with the engine temp and the car doesn't like to be driven, turned off for a short time then driven again. While driving the CEL light went out on its own and I thought everything was good. It seemed to be running good - not rough at all. That is until I stopped at the store for about 10 minutes. Started the car and within just a few minutes the CEL lit up and it was back to running rough. Because I am a bit weird, I turned the heat on high (yes in the middle of summer) to try to cool the engine a bit - which it did. The CEL light turned off after a day or two - with me driving around with heat on high.

Well, the CEL light is back on - and engine is running rough. Time to get this fixed but anytime I take a vehicle to a repair shop (dealer or not) I'm told it could be several issues and have the suggested repairs done one at a time to see if it fixes the problem. Usually takes alot of money and alot of time in the shop (and me without a car).

Any suggestions on what exactly is wrong with my car and how best to communicate to a shop to get it fixed in one visit?

I would so very much appreciate some reliable, knowledgeable advice.

Thank you

843de

to the forum imcrzy8!

A fairly common complaint, with a reasonably easy cure, give this thread by our Moderator whopper a read by clicking the link below......

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/

imcrzy8

Thank you 843de. Looks like I'm in for some reading! That is a long thread, interesting that it is such a common problem.

Thanks again!

~Anne

Oldblue

Double check your oil level with the HHR parked on level ground, Anne. It could be low oil level or dirty oil.

whopper

imcrzy8 - just the first post in that long thread should give you all the info you need:
part number for the INTAKE camshaft actuator solenoid (try and get the latest version as noted in the post) - and then the details on how to replace it.

Me, I recommend getting the replacement from GM, as a few have had problems with aftermarket ones.

If you have any questions, feel free to post them here.

donbrew

If you replace one, the other will code within a week.

imcrzy8

Hi Donbrew - are you suggesting I replace both the intake and the exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valves at the same time even though I only received a code for the intake?

imcrzy8

TGIF Whopper. Yes, I intend to get parts from GM. The local dealer lists them at approx $45 a piece (a bit more than GM Direct website, but worth it if it makes one less thing I have to organize or worry about.

I'm calling the dealer now to schedule a service appointment. If I can't get in until next week - will I be causing any damage by continuing to drive the vehicle?

Thanks in advance for your assistance - hope you have a great weekend!

~Anne

donbrew

I'm suggesting you do both at the same time if you can afford it.

Most experienced pros will tell you that if one is bad the other will be soon. The reason for failure is oil glopping up in the innards and on the screen that is SUPPOSED to protect the innards. The same oil serves both valves. Therefore both valves should die at nearly the same time.

whopper

Cause further damage? - not likely from my experience and from what we have seen here - but if you want to reset the codes by disconnecting the NEGATIVE post on the battery under the rear floor for a couple of minutes, it will reset things, until the computer detects a fault again, and the abrupt shifting should disappear until the codes are detected again. (I used to do that a few times until I replaced the failed solenoid - I replaced them both even though only one had a problem (didn't want to get my hands dirty a second time)).

there are two common failure causes for the problems with the solenoids:
1) they can get contaminated by dirty oil (and they are not worthy of cleaning really)
2) the wiring in the solenoids fail - if I remember right there should be ~12 ohms resistance across the terminals