user 72098230

I have a 2007 2.4 LT. I've been having code issues as of late. The latest are listed in the title. In researching the issue I see there are 2 Camshaft sensors on to of the intake manifold, one for intake and one for exhaust according to what I've been able to find. According to the above codes, which sensor should I replace??

On a side note, a few months ago I had to replace the vent valve solenoid. As soon as I replaced that, I started getting the large leak code P0455. Could any of those issues be related to or affecting the camshaft sensor. I would think not, but I'm just throwing it out there.

Thanks.

Oldblue

I Googled both the P0340 and P0341 codes and noted both had a probable cause of wire harness and or weak or dead battery!
I suggest you check the ground wires and your battery terminals to ensure they are clean and tight.
How old is your battery, it is possible it is getting close to giving up!
Please let us know, what you find.

LT4Man

I agree with Oldblue 100%!
On these later model vehicles, a full battery charge is necessary for optimum performance.
Batteries have always been important, but today they are vital.
Connections, both positive & negative (grounds) need to be spotless & tight.
Let us know what you find!

donbrew

Yes, have you checked ALL of your wiring and fuses?

OBD-II Trouble Code: P0341 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

and:OBD-II Trouble Code: P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

As the second one emphasizes it's the CIRCUIT that has a fault, not necessarily the part.

As I was trying to get across in your P0455 thread; if the power to the solenoid is OFF the valve is OPEN, causing a "large" leak. So, to be explicit, If there is a problem getting electricity to the parts in question a code will set.

Your Owners Manual will have a list of the fuses, my guess is one or more is blown, if so, then you need to find out why. Could be a careless screwdriver shorted something or a wire got frayed or burned.

user 72098230

When this first started with the first code relating to my vent valve solenoid I checked my manual and found the fuse for the emissions system. It was fine. Now there is a chance I have the original battery. I may have changed it once, I really can't remember. Battery terminals to the fuse block look clean. I have not checked the terminals on the battery itself since it's in an inconvenient place, back with the donut, but I will check that.

Thanks for all the tips.

whopper

If you can't remember if it is the original battery, or if/when you last replaced it, swing into pretty much any autoparts store and they will put a load tester on it to determine if it needs replacement.

Oldblue

I get mine checked in April ready for the spring and summer and again in late September to ensure no problems in the fall and winter!
Just remember to clean out the battery/ spare tire area before you go to the auto parts store.

user 72098230

Here's an update. Today I used t multi-meter to test the battery and alternator. I did this at the battery terminals. After not being started since last Thursday the battery read 12.5 volts or so. With the engine running it was hovering around 14.8 volts. I think that rules out a weak battery. The interesting thing was when I took a reading at each side of the fuse box, I got nothing when the car wasn't running and only between 4-6 volts when it was running. The terminals at the battery were pretty clean, but I cleaned them and sprayed an anti-corrosive spray on them. The connections on each side of the fuse box weren't bad either but I cleaned them up as well. After getting it all back together, I did get a reading at the fuse block of 2-4 volts with the engine not running, and 6-8 volts with the engine running. So I gained 4 volts just by cleaning up the ends.

So what should the reading be at the fuse block?? I would think it should read the same as at the battery. I also use a penetrating cable cleaner, so there's a good chance I'll get even better readings at the fuse block tomorrow.

Oh and the battery was a Bosch, so I don't think it's original. I did have the alternator replaced a few years ago and there's a good chance a new battery was put in at the same time.

whopper

Get your battery to a shop that will put a load tester on the battery to check it's health. Using a multi-meter to read the voltage does not tell you how many amps the battery will provide.

donbrew

If by "each side of the fuse box" you mean the terminal under the red tab and the terminal under the black tab (which is the EPS power supply, not ground), then you are reading a difference between 2 positives.

The GROUND is clearly marked on the strut tower, if it has been removed look in your Owners Manual under "jump starting".