dezzspair

about 2 weeks ago my wifes Chevy HHR the parking lamp fuse blew so I went and I replace the fuse and it seemed okay but the fuse blew again the same day now when she puts up using it'll blow within 10 minutes sometimes even right after putting the fuse in the only thing I've read online is that maybe the license plate bulbs could have something to do with it I remove the license plate bulbs and now the fuse pops immediately upon starting the carwe do believe that a mouse may have been in the front portion of the car and it seems that whenever the fuse blows for the parking lamps some of the radio illumination lights go with it I was wondering what I can do or check to try to solve this problem before I take it to a mechanicthe only thing I can think of is tracing the whole wire harness back from the lights which I don't even know how to get access to is there anything else I can check before retracing that entire wire harness back

dezzspair

and if someone has Skype or teamspeak or anything similar I'm willing to use that to try to talk through it if that makes anything easier

JLMaximus

You can check all the bulbs to make sure they are not burnt out and are seated properly in their sockets.

There appears to be two separate fuses for the parking lamps. Have you checked both of them?

That's all the help I can be. Sorry.

dezzspair

According to mu manual i only see the one fuse for parking lamps, but ive gone thru 3 fuses just today with testing the license plate lamps I don't think it's a fuse problem unless there's a relay that I'm not checking but I wouldn't know what I'm looking for and how to tell if it's bad

JLMaximus

Yes. The other 'fuse' is a relay. I don't know how to check them either... at least I didn't until ten minutes ago before googling and finding a video posted by Keanu Reeves' brother on testing relays.

It seems like a bit of a chore to do, though, so you'd probably be better waiting for someone who can give you more advice before going through so much work.

How did the bulb check pan out?

hhr06NJ

it blowing that fast should be an easy fix for an experienced tech. The random, occassional failures are hard to find.

When you can SIMULATE the event (i.e when stepping on the brake, turning on a turn signal etc), or as in THIS case with immediate steady failure it makes it easy. I had a tech work for me that could find these in 15-30 minutes (provided it was reasonably accessible).

they will put a "circuit breaker" in place of the fuse and start working the color coded wires per the wiring diagram

dezzspair

bulbs were fine, looked fine anyways, im going to replace the parking lamp bulbs anyways seeing as i only payed 4$ for both of them, going to also try following the wire harness back to see if i find anything chewed up or touching something it shouldnt be, and yes it happens immediately upon starting the car now that i took the licence plate bulbs completely out

Don06

You can make your own test equipment a couple of different ways. Use a 2 wire flasher and make a couple of leads to connect it in place of the fuse. The flasher will open and close the circuit so you can look at the lights on the 4 corners of the vehicle. If one of the lights doesn't work the problem is in that circuit.

You can also use a tail light or turn signal bulb in a socket with terminals on the leads to connect it in place of the fuse. It will act like a resistor to drop the voltage to the lights. They will be dimmer but you can still see light if you cover them with a blanket.

It can be as simple as a bulb that shorted internally and draws too much current.

dezzspair

is there anyway i can test with a multimeter instead of the flasher? (im an electrician just no dc knowledge)

hhr06NJ

Harbor Freight sells the circuit breaker.

you've got a hot wire touching another wire or a ground. or maybe a screw poked a wire.

any aftermarket electrical equipt installed recently? could a screw been driven thru a wire?