Lone Ranger

A discussion on BITOG about the tiny o-ring on the anti-drainback nipple on bottom of Ecotec oil filters:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...151274&fpart=1

An observation I made regarding same issue, which appears to confirm that the Purolator/Proline P15436 has a thicker o-ring than the Delco/Hengst PF457G (includes photos):

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...32#Post1193332

405HP_Z06

Good info LoneRanger! I changed my filter for the first time this weekend and used a K&N HP7000.

Lone Ranger

I saw the K&N HP7000 on Advance Auto's (or was it Autozone's?) internet pages. I used to use a K&N oil filter on my '95 Vette it was the only filter that eliminated a slight lifter tap at idle that the car had.

Let me know if your HHR's engine seems any quieter using the K&N HP7000.

Snoopy

Better, maybe.....is it needed....debatable, but technically unproven.

405HP_Z06

I understand your response, but you must consider what happens IF the o-ring does not seal adequately. If the o-ring doesn't seal adequately, what ever defines adequately from a design perspective, than this becomes a one-way bypass from the filter to the oil pan. Not good....

Snoopy

Oh, I understand perfectly. But after GM established some millions of miles of pre-introduction tests on this engine (not counting ongoing tests), you would think they would know a little of what is required. Not saying they don't make mistakes or have no room for improvement. But, with a couple million of these engines already on the road (and maybe 5X that in filter useage), I haven't heard of anyone having a o-ring failure.

Sometimes forums like this and others, bring about good and some great ideas. Sometimes the same forums have respondents that just wish to "hear" themselves...it's an ego thing and they need something to do...and sometimes some "things" are mentioned that are total BS, because it was heard from a neighbor of a neighbor of a son of an uncle And please understand, I AM NOT pointing a finger at you or any other member. My comment is general in nature.

It's kind of like the BRAND of synthetic oil debate that exists on BITOG and other forums. You know REALLY, no one can SAY WITH ABSOLUTE CERTAINTY, that one brand is better than the other for every individuals application. Nobody, not even the oil manufacturers, can provide absolute proof. But, we have vehicle owners "swearing on their 1st born son" that Mobil 1, Redline, Amzoil, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, etc. etc. etc. is the absolute ultimate and the best thing since sliced bread (as another member...possibly Solman...haven't heard of anyone having engine troubles related to ANY TYPE OF OIL in a very long time ). So a member does a little research, maybe asks some questions and culls the answers received for points to be noted. From there researches some more, and then, selects the oil he/she is COMFORTABLE WITH.

Now I do appreciate when a member discovers interesting data and passes that info to other members....myself included. Just be aware, in this instance, of other necessities of the filter design, besides filtering particulate matter from the oil.


Kevlar and Nomex suit is now on.

405HP_Z06

Fire suit not required.

All points noted and accurate. Forums many times promote the propagation of inaccurate information, it's no different than reading magazines, newspapers, or watching television. One must carefully discern the good from the bad and with one's own testing, arrive at their own conclusion.

As far as I'm concerned, the jury's still out as to what filter works the best. I'll let the data tell me what works and go from there.

I hear you on the religious battle's concerning engine oil and to a lesser degree filters. I take this very seriously and employ used oil analysis with qualified interpretation from Terry Dyson to determine the best oil and filters for my driving style and environmental factors. I have 4 years and 100,000 miles of UOA's from Dyson Analysis on the Toyota 4.0L V6 4Runner I traded on the HHR SS, every OCI was analyzed. I tried many different oils, oil filters, and air filters to fine tune the combination that provided the highest level of protection, longest drain interval, lowest wear, and lowest cost. It has been a very enlightening experience, learning what works and what doesn't. I have the same UOA information on my '03 Z06, 68,000 miles of Dyson UOA's, and used the same process to determine what combination works best. With all that said, I am 100% confident that I know and can support with definitive data what oil and filter combination works best for MY vehicle's.

I'm just starting the process on the HHR SS and with the help of Dyson Analysis look forward to finding the optimum combination of oil and filters.

Good conversation!

Lone Ranger

Snoopy, I was just making an observation. maybe the subject line was provocative, but I think the observation stands on its own. There are other features of the OE type filter than puzzle me, when compared to Purolator, FRAM, Supertech, and maybe some other designs. If you look at the photo of all the new filters laid side by side in front of their boxes for comparison, you'll notice a fundamental design difference between the Carquest (made by Wix) and Delco OE designs vs. the others. I won't spoil the plot, but I posted about this design difference on here last year.

Okay, I'll spill it. The OE design has a narrower center channel and narrower opening of the center chanel on the o-ring anti-drainback nipple end, such that the outer edge of the opening overlaps almost half of the horse shoe shaped oil port on the floor of the engine's filter canister. The other design's wider center channel opening does not overlap this port and leaves it fully open.

Sound of another can of worms opening:

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/%5Bphotos%5D-possible-oil-flow-restriction-9150/

So gosh dang it, Snoopy, maybe I am one of those members who just like to hear himself talk