Rear drum brake repair tutorial
#11
[QUOTE=NxlKing2304;369268]Mike,
This is actually pretty simple to do. Take off the rear wheel. ONce rear wheel is off you take the drum off. Take the drum to the nearest dealer, or repair shop to have resurfaced if it can be. This will ensure even wear on the shoes.
Hi .
It might sound stupid, but how exactly remove the drum?
I have a noise on the rear right wheel while breaking and I looked to remove the drum to check the shoes ( they are probably worn) and I couldn't figure out how; usualy there is a center cap and a nut under ...
Any suggestion will be highly appreciated...
Thanks!
This is actually pretty simple to do. Take off the rear wheel. ONce rear wheel is off you take the drum off. Take the drum to the nearest dealer, or repair shop to have resurfaced if it can be. This will ensure even wear on the shoes.
Hi .
It might sound stupid, but how exactly remove the drum?
I have a noise on the rear right wheel while breaking and I looked to remove the drum to check the shoes ( they are probably worn) and I couldn't figure out how; usualy there is a center cap and a nut under ...
Any suggestion will be highly appreciated...
Thanks!
#13
#14
The drum tends to rust to the center shaft, I used penetrating oil to break the rust. I have used a torch to heat the drum to free it. Usually hitting it with hammer after heating will free it.
I found the v shaped shoe retainer shoe to be the biggest problem. I put the shoe with the e brake attachment on first then pulled the clip outward and slipped the shoe other shoe in.
I found the v shaped shoe retainer shoe to be the biggest problem. I put the shoe with the e brake attachment on first then pulled the clip outward and slipped the shoe other shoe in.
#15
This is an old dead thread, but.... I too have something to add.
They changed the hold down and adjuster system in 2009 or 2010 to the same sort American cars have had for ages. But they also created a loose "interference" fit for the drum/hub connection.
I actually dented my drums with my 3 LB sledge hammer trying to get them off. Then I stuck a prybar between the backing plate and the drum while banging and came off gradually. Be careful though there is a backing plate backing plate that you can bend by accident.
This applies to 2011 models for sure, I think 2010, maybe 2009.
Oh, and the adjuster turns in the opposite direction.
They changed the hold down and adjuster system in 2009 or 2010 to the same sort American cars have had for ages. But they also created a loose "interference" fit for the drum/hub connection.
I actually dented my drums with my 3 LB sledge hammer trying to get them off. Then I stuck a prybar between the backing plate and the drum while banging and came off gradually. Be careful though there is a backing plate backing plate that you can bend by accident.
This applies to 2011 models for sure, I think 2010, maybe 2009.
Oh, and the adjuster turns in the opposite direction.
#16
"The drum tends to rust to the center shaft, I used penetrating oil to break the rust."
On mine after cleaning up the hub-snout, I wiped it with a hi-temp grease, very lightly..
Has never rusted/corroded again on my 2008....
On mine after cleaning up the hub-snout, I wiped it with a hi-temp grease, very lightly..
Has never rusted/corroded again on my 2008....
#18
#19
If the drum is stuck at the hub, there will be no movement there when trying to take off the drum.
If only the shoes are holding it, there will be a little give and you should be able to see the hub is free.
Over the years I've had to use a BFM(Big Frigging rubber Mallet) on many different types of drums. It's not just a HHR thing.
If only the shoes are holding it, there will be a little give and you should be able to see the hub is free.
Over the years I've had to use a BFM(Big Frigging rubber Mallet) on many different types of drums. It's not just a HHR thing.