Manual VS Auto 1/4 Mile racing facts
06-25-2012, 11:05 PM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-19-2012
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,015
Don't you have one o' them there Defecta tunes? 
Is he gonna take you out back of the woodshed with the GM 'faulty harness' upgrade? Maybe if I attend said throwdown, I can pick up some bonus parts.
Is he gonna take you out back of the woodshed with the GM 'faulty harness' upgrade? Maybe if I attend said throwdown, I can pick up some bonus parts.
06-26-2012, 05:44 AM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: 05-13-2008
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 2,075
Jeff foxworthy- "yes I would like the extra insurance, because you've got a Ford festiva that's about to see more airtime then a skateboard at the X games"
Hey ss fan, nothing wrong with a little airtime, as long as its a rental.
Hey ss fan, nothing wrong with a little airtime, as long as its a rental.
06-26-2012, 10:16 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-09-2011
Location: South Haven, MI
Posts: 372
Auto may win straight line tuned to same specs as a manual, never saw any mention though of an even playing field tune and part-wise and drivetrain loss being factored in.
Have fun with the ratio's in a short auto-x course as well, I still love my manual. A clutch and then a transmission later, I wouldn't change my mind today if I could.
Added manual pro: the woman can't drive it, nor has no desire to
Have fun with the ratio's in a short auto-x course as well, I still love my manual. A clutch and then a transmission later, I wouldn't change my mind today if I could
.Added manual pro: the woman can't drive it, nor has no desire to
06-26-2012, 10:43 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-17-2006
Location: Dallas, GA
Posts: 6,050
'Wrong-wheel-drive' ,at the drag strip, sucks with MT, or auto.
Street tires, or street drag radials won't cut it.
Too much front end 'lift' , at launch.
Maybe 'chaining' the front end down, might work, but who wants to do that.
Unless you go with slicks, it's really frustrating.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pghrace...3986/lightbox/
Street tires, or street drag radials won't cut it.
Too much front end 'lift' , at launch.
Maybe 'chaining' the front end down, might work, but who wants to do that.
Unless you go with slicks, it's really frustrating.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pghrace...3986/lightbox/
06-26-2012, 11:09 AM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-05-2011
Location: south florida
Posts: 1,056
'Wrong-wheel-drive' ,at the drag strip, sucks with MT, or auto.
Street tires, or street drag radials won't cut it.
Too much front end 'lift' , at launch.
Maybe 'chaining' the front end down, might work, but who wants to do that.
Unless you go with slicks, it's really frustrating.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pghrace...3986/lightbox/
Street tires, or street drag radials won't cut it.
Too much front end 'lift' , at launch.
Maybe 'chaining' the front end down, might work, but who wants to do that.
Unless you go with slicks, it's really frustrating.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pghrace...3986/lightbox/
06-26-2012, 03:04 PM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-23-2006
Location: Northeast Ohio in the Lake
Posts: 578
I drag race an auto z24 cavalier, and daily drive my 5 speed HHR.
Drag racing, an auto, will win 9 time out of ten with the exact same mods...or as close as it realistically can be.
Manuals are still a lot more fun to drive....
My HHR is very hard to launch, but it is a L61 "2.2l" F23 "5-speed". I either bog or wheel hop. I really have to feather the clutch to get it to launch well.
Drag racing, an auto, will win 9 time out of ten with the exact same mods...or as close as it realistically can be.
Manuals are still a lot more fun to drive....
My HHR is very hard to launch, but it is a L61 "2.2l" F23 "5-speed". I either bog or wheel hop. I really have to feather the clutch to get it to launch well.
06-26-2012, 03:50 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-19-2010
Location: Buffalo ny
Posts: 1,529
'Wrong-wheel-drive' ,at the drag strip, sucks with MT, or auto.
Street tires, or street drag radials won't cut it.
Too much front end 'lift' , at launch.
Maybe 'chaining' the front end down, might work, but who wants to do that.
Unless you go with slicks, it's really frustrating.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pghrace...3986/lightbox/
Street tires, or street drag radials won't cut it.
Too much front end 'lift' , at launch.
Maybe 'chaining' the front end down, might work, but who wants to do that.
Unless you go with slicks, it's really frustrating.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pghrace...3986/lightbox/
06-27-2012, 02:28 PM
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-05-2011
Location: south florida
Posts: 1,056
Slicks are best bet to go fast in a stick and auto. I did drag bags in the rear to keep from going down which work pretty good the car didn't lift on the launch. It takes more skill to drag race a stick then a auto. I think as soon I do the driver mod and sticky tires I should be able pull a better time.
06-28-2012, 03:54 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 09-20-2009
Location: Hayward, Ca.
Posts: 1,058
Without trying to sound too techincal or a know it all, the key components in this debate would be the clutch in a manual, and a torque convertor in a auto, in a HHR-SS, on a dragstrip.
In a manual, the cluch is the sole engagement ,of power and torque to the drivetrain, and then the tires. The clutch is designed to engage with no slippage, and it does so ,very abruptly at the launch. This in turn shocks the drivetrain, then the tires, and makes traction harder, to hook the tires. End result: hard to control wheelspin.
A auto using a torque convertor, by design, is made to allow for some slippage, which does'nt shock the tires as hard, and is a little easier to control the traction. End result: Much easier to launch the car.
All things being fairly equal[H.P.-torque-tires-driver reaction time], the auto has the edge at the launch and first hundred feet or so.
The launch and the first hundred feet at the strip, will either make or break a good E.T. or 60' time, and you will lose more often than not, if you don't get it right, every time.
Slicks will help on both manual and auto for traction. But...too much H.P.-torque, and too much traction, will lead to other driveline parts breakage.
Only feed the animal, what it can eat, or it will puke.
No secret that wheelspin is a problem on our platforms, manual or auto. "Moon"
In a manual, the cluch is the sole engagement ,of power and torque to the drivetrain, and then the tires. The clutch is designed to engage with no slippage, and it does so ,very abruptly at the launch. This in turn shocks the drivetrain, then the tires, and makes traction harder, to hook the tires. End result: hard to control wheelspin.
A auto using a torque convertor, by design, is made to allow for some slippage, which does'nt shock the tires as hard, and is a little easier to control the traction. End result: Much easier to launch the car.
All things being fairly equal[H.P.-torque-tires-driver reaction time], the auto has the edge at the launch and first hundred feet or so.
The launch and the first hundred feet at the strip, will either make or break a good E.T. or 60' time, and you will lose more often than not, if you don't get it right, every time.
Slicks will help on both manual and auto for traction. But...too much H.P.-torque, and too much traction, will lead to other driveline parts breakage.
Only feed the animal, what it can eat, or it will puke.
No secret that wheelspin is a problem on our platforms, manual or auto. "Moon"