Heritage High Roof

I've got a problem that showed up about a week and a half ago. 07 2LT with 138k miles on it. The SES light came on while driving on the highway. When I got home I plugged in my ScanGaugeII and pulled the code P0449 (Evap Vent Solenoid Circuit). Confirmed 12v power at the vent solenoid plug then pulled off the vent solenoid and checked it with my ohm-meter. Continuity test showed an open circuit and jumper wires to a battery did not get the solenoid to click or visually move. I got a new solenoid and after instalation the check engine light came on again with a code of B2AAA. I cleared the code and it came right back.
The car runs ok but it doesn't idle as smooth as it once did.
I have no idea what the B2AAA code means and am thinking of checking the connectors under the fuse box as my next step? I assume that the vent solenoid is controlled by the PCM through the ground circuit.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.

LawDog88

Try swapping the Evap Canister if you haven't already

Heritage High Roof

How can I test it? I don't want to throw parts at it without confirming the issue.

LawDog88

I googled the code that you gave, and it showed up on another forum, and that was the solution, with no further issues, and it had been almost 3 years..

Heritage High Roof

I found the following info on a sprinter forum:

To other users of the ScanGuage II OBD reader, here is a helpful hint if you get an odd error code that does not appear in the lists of standard P codes available on line or supplied with your SCII. This is from the tech support dept at ScanGuage:

"A module in your vehicle is reporting a code that doesn't make any sense (B2AAA) because it is overwriting the true code and that B2AAA codes is the first code the SG2 is picking up. You can send a command to the ScanGaugeII in order to read the raw data. To do this:
From the home screen select MORE> MORE> CMNDS > choose a memory slot> EDIT> enter the numbers 03> SEND.

This is a work around for now and the engineers plan on doing another software revision that would allow the ScanGaugeII to ignore the meaningless code.

So if you get a code on your reader that does not show up in the lists, you may be able to try this procedure to see what the root of the problem is.

Heritage High Roof

I followed the instructions on the above post and got the following results:
Memory 77
430200160017AA00
Memory 95
4300AAAAAAAAAA00
I don't know what these numbers could mean.

The "freeze frame" data stored from the last code logged:
PID03-open loop
PID04-Engine Load 58
PID05-Water Temp 30F
PID0B-MAP psi 8.2
PID0C-rpm 1112
PID0D-mph*0
PID0E-ign 6
PID0F-iat 31F
PID10-gph 0.00
PID11-tps 29

I unplugged the new vent solenoid and activated it using jumper wires. It works fine.
After that, I popped loose the fuse block under the hood and attempted to free the large connectors from the bottom of it. I couldn't figure out how they are attached and didn't want to break anything so I put it back together.
I am basically back to square one and I'm thinking that I may need to try a different code reader or contact ScanGauge about my raw data.

LawDog88

I use Advance Auto parts. Theirs are reliable, and accurate.

Heritage High Roof

I had the parts store read the code and it came up with P0016 and P0017 which points to a bad Crankshaft Position Sensor ($40). I ordered the part and will update once my status changes.

Heritage High Roof

I picked up the sensor and installed it today. Had to remove the starter to access the sensor. After having the battery disconnected, a short test drive revealed no check engine light. The idle still seems a bit choppy and I am starting to suspect the IAC valve or something.
While under the vehicle I discovered that both transmission cooler lines were leaking at the crimp joint. Appears to be a dealer only item for $65.

Heritage High Roof

Check engine light came on right after start up this morning. Had the code read at the parts store and it was P0016 Crankshaft Position (CKP)-Camshaft Position (CMP) Correlation. This is the same code that I thought I had corrected yesterday. I moved on to think that the camshaft position sensors may be acting up. I disconnected one at a time with the engine running and rough idle did not change at all. I then tested the "actuator solenoids" with my ohm meter. Both had 13.1 ohms of resistance. I don't know where to turn next. Should I keep throwing sensors and solenoids at it or could my timing chain be off time?
The symptoms seem to be getting more noticeable while driving. While waiting at a stop sign the car will vibrate and lurch a little.