goetylsd

I went to go somewhere today, and my HHR wouldn't start. I having been having problems with the battery, I think I might have a weak battery or something. So, I jumpstarted it with my battery pack, which I've had to do a few times lately. It started running extremely rough, and it basically sounded like a diesel or something. The "Eng Pwr Reduced" light came on, and it stayed on the entire time. It was making a "bogging" noise, and I drove to a nearby garage. On the way, it was very hard to drive. It didn't want to go above 25-30, and it took forever to even get moving at all. It felt like it had about as much horsepower as a lawn mower. When I got there, they plugged the computer into it, and he said he didn't find any codes. Now, the check engine light was on, so I thought there would be codes. I could be wrong, but I thought whenever the check engine light was on, there would for sure be codes. Is that right? He said I would have to come back on Tuesday and they would have to search around and look at it in depth to diagnose it. I know it's hard to say for sure, but does anyone have any thoughts on what it could possibly be? Is my engine going bad or something? Has anyone ever had this "Eng Pwr Reduced" thing happen to them? Up until this point, there have been absolutely no problems with my HHR, it's been a great car.

Thanks, Tyler

Lucky

First thing is to test the battery and if it fails replace it before any other testing is done. a bad battery that falls below 9 volts when cranking can confuse the powertrain control module and set faulse codes, and or drivablty problems. I have seen alot of money spent on parts and labor just to find a bad battery in the end.

sleeper

I'd suggest stopping by one of the Auto Parts stores & have them do a FREE test on your battery, & charging system..

whopper

If the garage could not get a code, it could be their code reader wasn't able to communicate with the car's system - I had to get a new reader when I found my older one would not work with the HHR.

I'd suggest trying one of the auto parts chain stores to retry reading the codes - is it Autozone that does it free down your way? Sleeper probably knows. :) and they can probably test your battery at the same time.

whopper

also found this - maybe related:

Subject: Intermittent Check Engine Light On, Engine Power Reduced Message Displayed in DIC, DTC P2135 Set (Inspect Engine Wiring Harness for Chafing and Recrimp ECM Terminals, if Necessary)

Models: 2006-2009 Chevrolet HHR
with 2.2L or 2.4L Engine (VINs B, D, P, V -- RPOs LE8, L61, LE5, LE9)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Condition
Some customers may comment that the check engine light is on and an engine reduced power message is displayed in the DIC.

A scan tool may reveal DTC P2135 set as current or in history.

Cause
This condition may be due to poor terminal crimps within the ECM connector, resulting in resistance at the affected circuits.

Correction
Perform the following as necessary.

Inspect the engine wiring harness for potential shorts to ground in the following locations and repair and reposition the circuits/harness as necessary:
• on the ECM/PCM case and/or on the edge of either ECM/PCM connector body
• at the UBEC bracket
• at the cylinder head plate (power steering pump blockout)
• at the EVAP purge valve bracket
• at the rear of the cylinder head/upper edge of transmission bell housing

If after inspection of the engine wiring harness reveals no chafing in the areas identified above, follow SI procedures to recrimp the terminals listed below. These terminals are located in the ECM connectors. Use release tool J 38125-213 and J 38125-641 crimp tool (H jaw). Install each terminal back into the correct connector cavity and re-evaluate the concern. For additional information refer to the Engine Data Sensors -- APP and TAC schematics and the Engine Control Module Connector End Views.
2006 2.2L L61 Engine ECM Connector
Function Pin Circuit No.

C2 Throttle Position Sensor 1 Signal 58 485

C2 Throttle Position Sensor 2 Signal 36 486

C2 Low Reference 29 1704

C2 Low Reference 31 2752

C2 5 Volt Reference 24 2701

C2 5 Volt Reference 26 1688






Subject: Intermittent MIL/SES, DTC P2138 with Reduced Engine Power (Repair Instrument Panel (IP) to Body Harness Connector) Models: 2005-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2005-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- This Bulletin is being revised to add additional diagnostic service information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 07-06-04-019 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Condition Some customers may comment on an intermittent MIL/SES light Illuminated with a message center or an indicator that displays Reduced Engine Power. DTC P2138 - Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 1-2 Correlation may be set. The voltage difference between APP sensor 1 and APP sensor 2 exceeds a predetermined value for more than a brief period. Refer to DTC P2138 in SI for further diagnostics. Cause On some vehicles, the IP to body harness connector, which carries the APP signal to the ECM/PCM, is located in the left hand kick panel area or inside the IP. Water intrusion into these areas could cause an electrical short in the APP circuits setting a P2138 code. Correction Note: Make sure that no add-on/aftermarket equipment is electrically connected to the APP signals or to the other ECM/PCM five volt reference or return lines. These can generate false P2138 and/or other ETC System DTCs. If there are other engine DTCs besides P2138, such as MAP sensor faults (i.e. P0107, P0108), resolve these first before attempting to diagnose P2138 DTCs. Important: Refer to DTC P2138 in SI to confirm that the ETC pedal is operating correctly. Locate the IP to body harness connector, which may be located in and around the left hand kick panel area or inside the IP. Check to see if there is a water leak into the area and repair as necessary. Use a water hose to determine the source of a water leak and effectiveness of repair. Some examples of potential water leaks are: A-pillar seals, sunroof drain lines (if so equipped) and windshield/cowl sealing. Finally, repair or replace the IP to body harness connector, making sure no corrosion or debris is left on or between the terminals. in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

goetylsd

Well, I went and got the battery tested today and they said it was still a "good battery." I went to a different garage and had them check for codes, and all they could find was a "Ignition Switch Circuit Fault" or something. He asked me if I had tried using any other keys lately and I said "no". He thought maybe my key was getting worn out and maybe I should try using my spare key instead. But of course, I doubt that any of this key business caused my Eng Pwr Reduced Light to come on. When I drove it today, it was back to normal. No Eng Pwr Reduced or Check Engine Light was on. At this point, it's running normal again, but I don't completely trust it. Is this a type of issue that will be recurring?? I'm not sure what to expect. I don't know if I should just leave it as it is now and hope it doesn't act up again, or if I should try and dig deeper to see if something is wrong. What do you think?

pitbull76

One possiblility that comes to mind: If you had to jumpstart it, the battery may have been drained at the time. If you have since charged it (or driven it enough), it is now properly charged and the problem is gone. The question remains why the battery died in the first place.

goetylsd

I usually leave my GPS plugged in at night. I've done that for quite a while now. I haven't really had that much trouble overall with my battery. I don't know if that could have caused it maybe?? I wouldn't really consider a GPS to be the type of thing to drain your battery completely. It was so low I could even open the liftgate.

Gas Man

GPS will drain your battery. Had it happen to me once on the wife's car (Lincoln MKZ). Drained it DEAD!

mongo

GPS draws roughly 1/4amp, enough to drain a battery overnight.

From GPS Forums: