why no in-line fuel filter?
#1
why no in-line fuel filter?
Why is there not a replaceable fuel filter on the HHR? As I understand the filter is now part of the pump assembly... in the gas tank.
Does the fuel pump have a MTBF so low that GM knew it would not last any longer than the life of a filter?
(MTBF = Mean Time Betweeen Failure)
Or just trying to maximize profits by having customers pony up for costly fuel pump replacements?
I forsee this being a hot topic in another year or two as these cars come to age and rack up the miles. Or maybe I missed something and it is abnormally easy to drop the tank or access/replace the filter on the pump without going through all that.
Does the fuel pump have a MTBF so low that GM knew it would not last any longer than the life of a filter?
(MTBF = Mean Time Betweeen Failure)
Or just trying to maximize profits by having customers pony up for costly fuel pump replacements?
I forsee this being a hot topic in another year or two as these cars come to age and rack up the miles. Or maybe I missed something and it is abnormally easy to drop the tank or access/replace the filter on the pump without going through all that.
#2
Not too sure about this one. I was wondering the same myself.
I had a 1995 escort that had access to the fuel pump under the cushion for the back seat. Maybe the HHR is the same?
I am sure that ChevyMgr could answer this with certainty.
I had a 1995 escort that had access to the fuel pump under the cushion for the back seat. Maybe the HHR is the same?
I am sure that ChevyMgr could answer this with certainty.
#3
As for your first question, you basically answered it in the second sentence .
Next 2 questions are debatable and opinions by many will procede .
Last statement raises an interesting question. I personally haven't had the need to drop a fuel tank on the HHR. I do know the fuel pump is relatively expensive and I believe the filter is joined to that assembly. So it may all need to be replaced. Maybe ChevyMgr can answer that question .
Honestly, I doubt anyone on this forum can answer some of your questions with accuracy. It really needs to be addressed by GM/Chevrolet Division engineers. I suggest you write or contact them.
Next 2 questions are debatable and opinions by many will procede .
Last statement raises an interesting question. I personally haven't had the need to drop a fuel tank on the HHR. I do know the fuel pump is relatively expensive and I believe the filter is joined to that assembly. So it may all need to be replaced. Maybe ChevyMgr can answer that question .
Honestly, I doubt anyone on this forum can answer some of your questions with accuracy. It really needs to be addressed by GM/Chevrolet Division engineers. I suggest you write or contact them.
#4
GM has stopped putting inline filters in some models since 2004. Other manufacturers have been doing it longer. The fuel sender assembly (pump/regualtor/sock/level sensor) inside the tank has a container on the bottom of it about the size of 1/2 coffee can. All the fuel pick up components are inside of this container. It has a small intake port in the very bottom that filters the bigger debris so that the fuel that is filling the container is fairly clean. The fuel fills the container and a sock(filter) is used at the end of the fuel pumps pick-up tube. Smaller debris that makes it to the sock is then filtered by the sock before entering the fuel pump and simply falls to the bottom of the container.
Todays pumps are much more robust then pumps of old also. We still see more failures of the old style pumps with inline fuel filters then we do of the newer style.
GM calls this a self cleaning system. Any debris that does not go into the canister of the fuel pump assembly falls to the bottom of the tank and any debris that the sock stops falls to the bottom of the canister when the fuel pump is shut off. We are talking very small amounts of debris here too.
Todays pumps are much more robust then pumps of old also. We still see more failures of the old style pumps with inline fuel filters then we do of the newer style.
GM calls this a self cleaning system. Any debris that does not go into the canister of the fuel pump assembly falls to the bottom of the tank and any debris that the sock stops falls to the bottom of the canister when the fuel pump is shut off. We are talking very small amounts of debris here too.
Last edited by ChevyMgr; 04-10-2008 at 07:37 AM. Reason: spelling, grammer you name it.....
#5
Not sure if this helps, but you could check to see if your model has this setup. This is from a cobalt website that is a good how-to with pictures:
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...ht=fuel+filter
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...ht=fuel+filter
#6
Not sure if this helps, but you could check to see if your model has this setup. This is from a cobalt website that is a good how-to with pictures:
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...ht=fuel+filter
http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showt...ht=fuel+filter
#8
Here is the page. You can click on the links to see the pictures. Sorry did not realize that you had to be a member to see it. But if you sign up there is a lot of useful information about the 2.2L and 2.4L ecotecs on there.
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This shouldn't take anymore then 15 to 20 minutes to complete. Make sure you have the fuel line quick disconnect tool before beginning or this will be very difficult. I have a picture of the tool I used below:
http://www.murley.org/pics/disconnect.JPG
1. Depressurize the fuel system. Do this by pulling the fuel pump relay out of the fuse box then start the car. The car will stumble then die. You can then turn off the car and replace the relay.
http://www.murley.org/pics/fuelpumprelay.JPG
2. Goto the rear of the car and find the fuel filter.
http://www.murley.org/pics/fuelfilter.JPG
3. Remove the two fuel lines that are circled red. It is easier to get your hands on the fuel lines if you unclamp and move the wires circled in blue. Next, remove the fuel line circled in green using a fuel line quick disconnect tool. Finally, remove the bolt in yellow and the fuel filter is out!
http://www.murley.org/pics/fuelfilter2.JPG
4. Replace the fuel filter. Put the bolt from the yellow circle back in then put all the fuel line fittings back on the filter. Don't forget to put the wires back into the clamps if you moved them.
5. Repressurize the fuel system. Do this by placing the key in the ignition and turning it to the "ON" position. You should hear the fuel pump making a whirring sound. Check the fuel lines at the fuel filter for any leaks. Turn the key back to "OFF" and wait 10 seconds. Then turn the key to the "ON" position again, wait for the fuel pump to finish pressurizing then you are ready to start the car! Check for leaks one last time, then you are ready to drive!
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This shouldn't take anymore then 15 to 20 minutes to complete. Make sure you have the fuel line quick disconnect tool before beginning or this will be very difficult. I have a picture of the tool I used below:
http://www.murley.org/pics/disconnect.JPG
1. Depressurize the fuel system. Do this by pulling the fuel pump relay out of the fuse box then start the car. The car will stumble then die. You can then turn off the car and replace the relay.
http://www.murley.org/pics/fuelpumprelay.JPG
2. Goto the rear of the car and find the fuel filter.
http://www.murley.org/pics/fuelfilter.JPG
3. Remove the two fuel lines that are circled red. It is easier to get your hands on the fuel lines if you unclamp and move the wires circled in blue. Next, remove the fuel line circled in green using a fuel line quick disconnect tool. Finally, remove the bolt in yellow and the fuel filter is out!
http://www.murley.org/pics/fuelfilter2.JPG
4. Replace the fuel filter. Put the bolt from the yellow circle back in then put all the fuel line fittings back on the filter. Don't forget to put the wires back into the clamps if you moved them.
5. Repressurize the fuel system. Do this by placing the key in the ignition and turning it to the "ON" position. You should hear the fuel pump making a whirring sound. Check the fuel lines at the fuel filter for any leaks. Turn the key back to "OFF" and wait 10 seconds. Then turn the key to the "ON" position again, wait for the fuel pump to finish pressurizing then you are ready to start the car! Check for leaks one last time, then you are ready to drive!
#10