Don06

I've parked my 2006 outdoors in 20 below zero and driven in below zero weather but I haven't had any throttle body issues yet.

Snoopy

Just wondering, and also maybe attempting to eliminate some frustration......

Doesn't the battery have a build date on it??

Seems unlikely, unless it is an unusual battery, the battery was on the shelf to long. Of course, I'm not allowing for a battery that was faulty from the build process/date.

Franco Fanfuria

Okay, now I'm kinD of confused, they gave me a new battery on Friday and told me it takes about 24 hours for everything to settle in. I drove it around Friday evening for a bit and made about a forty five minute drive yesterday morning on all highway speed. my car is running great with both the A/C and the heater on and has not turned on the check engine or power reduced lights. I took it over to auto parts store to have them check my battery out for laughs and when they tested my battery from the post under the hood it read bad battery. I then had them test it from the back directly on the battery and it read good battery so I started thinking I might have to replace the cable running from under the hood to the battery, but then he tested the alternator from the battery out back and it read good also so I'm assuming the connection from the battery and the alternator is good. Like I said, regardless of the battery testing bad up front, it tested good directly out back and my car is running great. Could it just be that the post in the front are only for jumpnstarting and are not made to test the battery from up front? Any thoughts?

Greybeard999

Where was the guy connecting the negative lead on his battery tester when checking under the hood?

Snoopy

No Franco, if everything is installed correct and no "breaks", you should have the same reading, plus or minus a couple of tenths of a volt...front or back. At least, that has been my experience. I have always tested, jumped, boosted and connected from under the hood. The 2 times I checked voltage readings front and rear, I achieved the results expressed above.



I will add to greybeards possible thinking......

SOME owners have expressed problems attempting ANY "battery" connections under the hood. Mostly at the negative (-)GM recommended strut tower. I get a solid connection there.

IgottaWoody

I thought I read on here somewhere the front connector is mostly one way,,to the rear ( dioded?) full voltage back but limited voltage fwd....I dont believe that connecter is directly tied to the batt......might have to search it...could be wrong.

Snoopy

Ok, now you have me wondering........

If I have a "smart charger" that utilizes a 4 step process to completely charge a battery, how does it recognize the different voltage steps and need for change as the battery goes through the steps. Also it has a LED display that provides information from hook up (giving current battery voltage..... usually around the 12.6 area ) and then through each of the charging steps, i.e., 14.1, 13.6, 12.6 and the maintainer at 2 amps.

You got me wondering if I'm getting valid information.

IgottaWoody

but you charger is based on load resistance..it senses the load on the line and adjusts accordingly...so theres no "return' signal....hmm...but then again if its sensing voltage.....

Snoopy

Yeah, see....that's how I'm thinking also. It is sensing the line voltage to make the necessary "step" adjustments. By memory, the instruction book, to the charger, indicated the charger SENSES the completion voltage of a particular step and adjusts accordingly.

Man, you really have me wondering if, upon initial connection, the battery is at 12. 61, 12.60, 12.57, (experienced), also.

I think I'll get my multi-meter out and check, when I get a chance.

Don06

They couldn't put a diode in the battery circuit because you either wouldn't get current from the battery to the starter or you wouldn't get current to the battery to charge it.