How to replace wheel bearing assembly on front
10-08-2012, 10:33 AM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-27-2012
Location: KY
Posts: 103
GM Way:
1
Loosen the front lug nuts on the wheel with the failed hub-and-bearing assembly, using a ratchet and socket. Raise the front of the HHR with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the vehicle’s subframe. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the vehicle.
2
Instruct an assistant to press and hold the brake pedal as you loosen the axle nut, using a breaker bar and socket.
3
Set a drain pan under the front caliper and position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper, so its fixed side contacts the rear of the caliper and its screw side contacts the rear of the outer brake pad. Open the caliper’s bleeder valve, using a box-end wrench, and immediately tighten the C-clamp until it stops moving. Immediately tighten the bleeder screw with a box-end wrench. Remove the C-clamp.
4
Remove the two caliper-to-steering knuckle bolts, using a breaker bar and socket. Lift the caliper bracket, caliper and brake pads from the steering knuckle as one assembly. Hang the assembly from the front strut spring, using a bungee strap.
5
Pull the rotor from the hub. If the rotor does not pull off easily, lightly strike the rear of it with a rubber mallet to free it.
6
Unplug the antilock brake system sensor wiring harness from the HHR’s wiring harness, if the vehicle is equipped with ABS. Remove the three hub-and-bearing assembly bolts, which you can access from the rear of the steering knuckle, using a breaker bar and socket.
7
Pull the hub-and-bearing assembly from the steering knuckle and axle. If needed, pop the axle free from the hub-and-bearing assembly, using an axle puller, then remove the hub-and-bearing assembly. Pull the hub-and-bearing spacer from the steering knuckle.
Installation
8
Guide the new hub-and-bearing spacer, which comes with the new hub-and-bearing assembly, and new hub-and-bearing assembly into place on the steering knuckle and axle. Hand-tighten the new hub-and-bearing assembly bolts, which also come with the new assembly, then tighten them to 85 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.
9
Connect the ABS sensor wiring harness into the HHR’s wiring harness. The new assembly comes fitted with an ABS sensor.
10
Thread the axle nut onto the end of the front axle.
11
Install the rotor onto the new hub-and-bearing assembly. Remove the caliper bracket, caliper and brake pads assembly from the bungee strap and guide them over the rotor and onto the steering knuckle.
12
Hand-tighten the caliper bracket bolts, then tighten them to 85 foot-pounds.
13
Instruct your assistant to press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Tell your assistant to hold the brake pedal as you tighten the axle nut to 81 foot-pounds.
14
Place the front wheel onto the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the HHR off the jack stands and remove the stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to 100 foot-pounds.
15
Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. If the fluid level is not between the “Min” and “Max” lines on the reservoir, add more DOT 3 brake fluid until the level is between the “Min” and “Max” marks.
16
Take any old DOT 3 brake fluid to a used automotive fluid recycling center. Some auto parts stores take old fluid for free.
1
Loosen the front lug nuts on the wheel with the failed hub-and-bearing assembly, using a ratchet and socket. Raise the front of the HHR with a floor jack and slide jack stands under the vehicle’s subframe. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off the vehicle.
2
Instruct an assistant to press and hold the brake pedal as you loosen the axle nut, using a breaker bar and socket.
3
Set a drain pan under the front caliper and position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper, so its fixed side contacts the rear of the caliper and its screw side contacts the rear of the outer brake pad. Open the caliper’s bleeder valve, using a box-end wrench, and immediately tighten the C-clamp until it stops moving. Immediately tighten the bleeder screw with a box-end wrench. Remove the C-clamp.
4
Remove the two caliper-to-steering knuckle bolts, using a breaker bar and socket. Lift the caliper bracket, caliper and brake pads from the steering knuckle as one assembly. Hang the assembly from the front strut spring, using a bungee strap.
5
Pull the rotor from the hub. If the rotor does not pull off easily, lightly strike the rear of it with a rubber mallet to free it.
6
Unplug the antilock brake system sensor wiring harness from the HHR’s wiring harness, if the vehicle is equipped with ABS. Remove the three hub-and-bearing assembly bolts, which you can access from the rear of the steering knuckle, using a breaker bar and socket.
7
Pull the hub-and-bearing assembly from the steering knuckle and axle. If needed, pop the axle free from the hub-and-bearing assembly, using an axle puller, then remove the hub-and-bearing assembly. Pull the hub-and-bearing spacer from the steering knuckle.
Installation
8
Guide the new hub-and-bearing spacer, which comes with the new hub-and-bearing assembly, and new hub-and-bearing assembly into place on the steering knuckle and axle. Hand-tighten the new hub-and-bearing assembly bolts, which also come with the new assembly, then tighten them to 85 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.
9
Connect the ABS sensor wiring harness into the HHR’s wiring harness. The new assembly comes fitted with an ABS sensor.
10
Thread the axle nut onto the end of the front axle.
11
Install the rotor onto the new hub-and-bearing assembly. Remove the caliper bracket, caliper and brake pads assembly from the bungee strap and guide them over the rotor and onto the steering knuckle.
12
Hand-tighten the caliper bracket bolts, then tighten them to 85 foot-pounds.
13
Instruct your assistant to press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Tell your assistant to hold the brake pedal as you tighten the axle nut to 81 foot-pounds.
14
Place the front wheel onto the hub and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the HHR off the jack stands and remove the stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to 100 foot-pounds.
15
Check the level of the brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. If the fluid level is not between the “Min” and “Max” lines on the reservoir, add more DOT 3 brake fluid until the level is between the “Min” and “Max” marks.
16
Take any old DOT 3 brake fluid to a used automotive fluid recycling center. Some auto parts stores take old fluid for free.
10-08-2012, 08:54 PM
#12
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,670
My book says 155 Lb-Ft for the axle nut. It is easier (and the way GM says to do it) to place a punch or drift or screw driver into a vent hole on the rotor and brace it against the caliper bracket when removing and installing the axle nut, no assistant required.
You don't need to bleed the calipers to remove them, or even compress them, they should just pop off after you remove the bolts. Unless you are replacing calipers or flushing the fluid you never "need" to open the bleeder valve. When you replace the pads you only need to push the piston back in with the c-clamp, that pushes the fluid back into the reservoir, thus restoring the fluid level to "max".
And, if the brake fluid level is low that means you've either got a leak or the pads need replacing. You should never "top off" the brake fluid, since it is an indicator of pad wear, that's the reason for the min/max marks. "Min" means minimum brake pad thickness, not minimum fluid in system. Brake fluid does not evaporate in less than 30 years.
Your "GM way" is different from the procedure published in the "2006 HHR Service Manual" that I own. But it will get the job done, if you have an assistant, and want to mess with brake fluid.
You don't need to bleed the calipers to remove them, or even compress them, they should just pop off after you remove the bolts. Unless you are replacing calipers or flushing the fluid you never "need" to open the bleeder valve. When you replace the pads you only need to push the piston back in with the c-clamp, that pushes the fluid back into the reservoir, thus restoring the fluid level to "max".
And, if the brake fluid level is low that means you've either got a leak or the pads need replacing. You should never "top off" the brake fluid, since it is an indicator of pad wear, that's the reason for the min/max marks. "Min" means minimum brake pad thickness, not minimum fluid in system. Brake fluid does not evaporate in less than 30 years.
Your "GM way" is different from the procedure published in the "2006 HHR Service Manual" that I own. But it will get the job done, if you have an assistant, and want to mess with brake fluid.
Last edited by donbrew; 10-08-2012 at 09:27 PM.
10-09-2012, 12:40 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-22-2010
Location: Russia Ekaterinburg
Posts: 2,009
in addition some pictures
One guy from Belarus reported.
http://www.bigmotors.by/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=286
One guy from Belarus reported.
http://www.bigmotors.by/forum/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=286
10-09-2019, 07:36 AM
#20
Administrator
Join Date: 10-13-2011
Location: Welland,Ont Canada
Posts: 36,458
For the price of a pair of hubs, why spend the time and energy on sourcing bearings ?
https://www.google.ca/search?q=hhr+f...&bih=626&dpr=2
https://www.google.ca/search?q=hhr+f...&bih=626&dpr=2