donbrew

Are you sure they didn't say "G5" was the same?

2oodoor

I see the part nunber is the same fir g5 cobalt hhr, differences are 4w anti lock brake option, also some have four lug bolt. G6 is total other beast not even close.

bal07hhr

I replaced both of mine yesterday- they were fused to the strut arm from 7 years in the Indiana salt. Had to use a air hammer to get them out. Bought Timken bearings- made in Korea. Thanks for all the tips on here!

DavidLadewig

The dealer quote was $800 plus parts. Wrong, not born last night. I got the hubs at O'Reilly Auto parts. $53 for each hub and $4 for each spindle nut. I rented a 30mm socket and a hub puller. (you pay for them and if you bring them back in 48 hours, no charge) so that was free. I followed the instructions here and had both wheels done in under 3 hours counting coffee, sweetrolls, and phone calls. The only difference I experienced by using the puller was speed and very little coaxing. Once the puller had a slight amount of tension on the axle, a tap from my 5 pound hammer took it off in less than a minute. The right bearing was bad but I thought doing both while I was there was good. Thanks guys for good directions

maddawg

Hi David,

Which style puller did you use from O'Reilly?

Was it the one that fasten to the lug studs then has the center bolt to move the hub away from the housing?

I picked that one up tonight. I am going to try to use it tomorrow. I had my driver side bearing making noise and discover one of the bottom bolts had fallen out at some point. It is the original bearing with 154,000.

I had done the passenger side in the past but it took a light tap to remove that hub. This one did not want to move and I am not at home with all my tools. I am sure I could have got it off there.

Just curious which one you used.

Thanks.

Oldblue

I looked up Prime Choice $98.00 for two!

donbrew

In what way does this add to a tutorial?
At the risk of being redundant, have you ever noticed the search box in bold print at the top of each page?

Lee3333

Don, it does not add to the tutorial. BUT before one takes advantage of this fine instructional thread, they first have to know which hubs to buy. And I thought that knowing which brand would be important along with knowing how to change them. As I said, there are a wide variaty of choices, and I am certain that many of us do not know which to buy.

whopper

It's not a big deal, but..... you had already opened another thread posing the same question - which is the forum correct way of approaching it, rather than burying the info in the How-to thread, especially for a semi-popular topic.

ie: add a link in this thread to the other one - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...d-noise-52868/

lazaino

So this evening I did the passenger side on my SS. Basically it was exactly as indicated but for 2 things. I bought a deep 30mm socket and brought that and a 15mm socket down to work on the car. But my SS has a 36mm nut holding the axle and the 5 bolts that needed removing all needed a 13mm socket. Luckily my dad owned a porsche and so I have a 3/4 breaker bar and a 36mm socket. Big though, so I had to take off the wheel to use it. Being lazy I tried this to restrain the hub while loosening and tightening the nut and it worked perfect. Obviously you'll need to move the wood to the other side to loosen it!

Ira