8thmileman

After installing front SS/TC springs I took the panel to alignment shop. Well now it want track straight at all, wants to drift left for the most part. Drove way better before they touched it. So needless to say, it's going back.
But the question is, does a HHR take a 4 wheel thrust alignment? That is what they put on the receipt and charged $51 which me being a cheapo thought was too much.
And I hope I posted this in right category.

Thanks,
David

843de

There are two schools of thought on HHR alignments, the first is that since "toe" is the only thing that's normally set on the front end, a 2 wheel alignment is OK.

The other school of thought is that a 4 wheel alignment is better in case of the front and rear getting out of line, what we used to call a "thrust alignment" on rear wheel drive cars and trucks.

The rear toe is adjustable with shims, and unless you've really nailed a pothole, its not too likely to get knocked out of spec...but it can happen.

Since you changed out the front springs, there is a change in the basic geometry of the front suspension, so I'd ask of they checked the camber against the specs. You might need to go with "camber kits" on each front corner if the springs and revised ride height have changed the geometry enough to take it out of spec.

I'd take to the shop and have them check it again with special attention on whether they just checked the front toe, instead of looking at the camber too.

IgottaWoody

Something else to consider is when the struts go back in, there is a small amount of play in the strut mount holes before tightening up which will allow the camber to be slightly adjusted..Ive done this on the LS previously because the tire tops were just a tad inboard and was wearing the tire insides....jacked up wheel, loosened bolts just enough to move upper spindle outbd while using bottom as the pivot point. U wont notice this on strut replacement because , well, your slamming it back together and not thinking about it. So if you use a 4 by 4 under ball joint to slightly support lower arm before you tighten everything up you can move the strut around a small bit...this helps with the lowered crowd as the lower springs tend to camber the tire tops in...

firemangeorge

Yeah. And for $51 dollars I doubt they did any adjustment to the rear. Most likely just checked the rear.

donbrew

IF they did change any shims the cost would be more than $51 per wheel. You have remove the bearings to get to the area that the shims go. If the rear is out of alignment A) you need new rear hub/bearings or B) you need a new axle beam.

I was walking up the driveway and noticed that the rear wheels were canted (camber), turns out really bad bearings.

$51 for an alignment ain't bad. But, if they don't know what they are doing money don't mean a thing.

My general rule is: if anything is out of spec, find out what is bent or worn out before any adjustment is made. Once you start adjusting bad parts, it may never be "right" again.

bigjacksauto

8thmile
if they did not give you a before and after printout then I would deal with someone else.
At least that way with the printout you could have seen what was done to make it feel worse.
I always have the shop bring me out while they are doing the work to see where it was and what they will do to correct it.

Snoopy

Hmmm, another that PULLS TO THE LEFT after new parts.....

8thmileman

Please elaborate Snoop!

VinceP

Yes, that is what is happening to mine. Pulling to the left. I replaced the struts and shocks and had an alignment done at the dealer. Took it back and they are trying to tell me I have a bad tire. Total BS because it did not start pulling left until after the alignment.

8thmileman

Well I took it back to shop and had him put back on the rack and let me read the screen. Everything was in spec actually nearly perfect. But he also said the only adjustment possible was toe unless you elongate the lower strut hole for camber adjustment or get the caster cams that mount at top of strut like in the Mustang aftermarket. But none of that is needed because it is all in spec. I can tell you when I first got the car it pulled slightly to the RIGHT. After putting the Bullitt wheels and new tires on, it still pulled slightly to the RIGHT. After leveling it out with the rear SS/TC springs, it still pulled slightly to the RIGHT. After lowering the front with the front SS/TC springs, it still pulled to the RIGHT. Take it to get it aligned and now it pulls slightly to the LEFT.
I could see the wider wheels and tires causing it to wonder a little, but don't know why it would pull left.
One thing I'm gonna check is when I installed the rear sway bar also before the alignment, I only jacked up one side enough to get under it, so it could have it tweaked. So I'm gonna jack both sides up and loosen the bolts and retighten them. Might help, but doubt it.

David