2.0L Performance Tech 260hp (235hp auto) Turbocharged SS tuner version. 260 lb-ft of torque

BOV replacement: Forge Motorsports

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Old Jun 26, 2012 | 05:50 AM
  #171  
foolmoon_design's Avatar
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From: Knoxville, TN
Tapping and die on a nipple sounds painful
Old Jun 26, 2012 | 08:08 AM
  #172  
843de's Avatar
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From: Kannapolis NC
Originally Posted by SS fan
My left nipple just spins, I must have stripped it out.
I'm at a loss for words Sam, but how does the Mrs. feel about this?
Old Jun 26, 2012 | 01:39 PM
  #173  
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Gee, what happens when it gets cold out???
Old Jul 3, 2012 | 02:29 PM
  #174  
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From: wheeling
Smile

i just ordered the forge valve. i'm very interested to see if i notice any difference. i have the gm tune upgrade & the boost just doesn't seem to get as high as it used to, & it's kind of lazy & bleeds down more than when it was 1st "upgraded".
Old Jul 3, 2012 | 07:45 PM
  #175  
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From: Tacoma
You will like it as long as you don't strip a nipple.
Old Jul 10, 2012 | 07:58 AM
  #176  
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From: wheeling
Question


so i installed the forge blowoff valve. i installed the yellow spring & screwed the valve together hand tight. am i supposed to tighten the valve together w/ a wrench? after i installed it, i started the engine & think i heard a slight whistle noise, like a vacuum leak. went for a 6 mile test drive & the boost did come on a lot easier & sooner & hit 20 lbs much easier & it held it steady. basically, it acted like it did when i first had the gm upgrade done, but after 1 year, the boost wouldn't get as high & it would come on in waves & not hold steady. but, after 4 miles the "check engine" light came on w/ code p2261 " turbo bypass mechanical".
any help out there? do i need to tighten the 2 halves of the valve w/ a wrench, or are you guys just hand tightening the valve together?
Old Jul 10, 2012 | 09:36 AM
  #177  
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From: HuskerNation
After hand tightening I tighten with channel locks about another 1/8-1/4 turn.
Old Jul 10, 2012 | 10:02 AM
  #178  
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From: wheeling
Arrow


i called forge & he told me to tighten the valve a little more. he said to press in against the spring where the nipple is & tighten the valve. the reason to press in is so the o-ring doesn't tear.
Old Jul 10, 2012 | 10:56 AM
  #179  
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Joined: 12-06-2009
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From: Alabama
"tighten it till it strips, then back off a 1/4 turn"

(sorry. couldn't resist)
Old Jul 25, 2012 | 11:28 AM
  #180  
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From: wheeling
Question

so, i removed the bov, & the 2 halves were tight - i was unable to loosen it by hand. so, i noticed the o-ring is almost flush with the unit - it barely protrudes - so i'm thinking there may be a vacuum leak. so i brushed on some anti-seize on the o-ring, hoping for a better seal. well, on normal driving w/ some boost - no problem, but on hard accel, it will set the "check engine" light w/ code p2261. any advice?



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