My Fix: Tmap sensor hitting compressor.
07-07-2012, 04:50 PM
#1
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,087
My Fix: Tmap sensor hitting compressor.
First off. I didn't have an issue of the Tmap hitting the compressor because I put in this fix from day one of the upgrade. I did this as a preventative measure. Here's a picture for those that have been under there and eyeballed it. The picture includes the bracket that is my fix to this.
The reasoning of this:
The bracket goes from the oil pan to the lower charge pipe. At rest it keeps the charge pipe 1 inch clear of the compressor.
When driving, as the engine torques over(rotates,moves against the mounts) the bracket will keep the charge pipe that same distance and clearance from the compressor.
The charge pipe has the rubber hose ends and is able to flex enough to not sustain any damage or breakage. I tried flexing it before putting on the bracket. Seems like you could safely move it about 2 inches.
I also put a split half of PVC pipe over the charge pipe to spread the pressure of the bracket pushing against it.
I know some folks have had issues with the compressor hitting the Tmap wires. Just thought I'd show you a little different fix to this.
Sorry it's not the best picture. I'm getting too old to lay on the shop floor and play photographer.
The reasoning of this:
The bracket goes from the oil pan to the lower charge pipe. At rest it keeps the charge pipe 1 inch clear of the compressor.
When driving, as the engine torques over(rotates,moves against the mounts) the bracket will keep the charge pipe that same distance and clearance from the compressor.
The charge pipe has the rubber hose ends and is able to flex enough to not sustain any damage or breakage. I tried flexing it before putting on the bracket. Seems like you could safely move it about 2 inches.
I also put a split half of PVC pipe over the charge pipe to spread the pressure of the bracket pushing against it.
I know some folks have had issues with the compressor hitting the Tmap wires. Just thought I'd show you a little different fix to this.
Sorry it's not the best picture. I'm getting too old to lay on the shop floor and play photographer.
07-07-2012, 06:21 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: 01-13-2008
Location: Washington State, where it rains
Posts: 4,708
I just used a lowtech zip tie to pul ower tube back..it doesnt move at all this way...I'd be concerned about the constant movement on the plastic piping... it could work harden and fail...also changing the upper motor mount really takes alot of the play out of the picture
07-07-2012, 06:32 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-05-2008
Location: Akron Ohio
Posts: 5,464
Nice and it looks like it is one that will not fail later due to rubbing.
That looks like a shelf bracket cut down?
I expect with time and with worn mounts t maps that are not hitting now may later on with more engine rotation. This may help some one in the future.
That looks like a shelf bracket cut down?
I expect with time and with worn mounts t maps that are not hitting now may later on with more engine rotation. This may help some one in the future.
07-07-2012, 07:09 PM
#5
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Join Date: 12-06-2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 11,087
IgottaWoody. I have the TTR upper mount. A zip tie is OK but you'll still have movement. Rigid mounted at the intercooler on one end and still a torque rocking engine to the other end. Maybe not as much movement as my setup, but you'll still have some.
hyper. Cut it from some scrap aluminum industrial shelf with a lip. It has a rubber coating . Was grey, so I painted it black.
hyper. Cut it from some scrap aluminum industrial shelf with a lip. It has a rubber coating . Was grey, so I painted it black.
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