jakebenson6669

my generic obd2 scanner defined the codes as I stated. P0068 map/maf throttle position correlation. And I had to Google correlation to find out that pasically it means that they aren't getting the same reading. A broken wire is possible. I just wondered if maybe the timing being set to top dead center intake instead of top dead center power mite have be the reason it runs like the throttle position sensor is bad. And really in theory, if its firing right before the intake valves open instead of the crank making a while mother revolution first, it could be blowing back out the intake giving me the reading that the map is different than the maf. Again this is all theory. I'm just wondering if it ever been heard of. Yes the crank only had one top dead center, but it hits it twice per cam rev. I'm just gonna year it back apart and try again. But I tore it apart after luring crank at tdc, and put it all together without moving anything. Even the old gears had the intake and exhaust symbols on the cams backward from which can they were actually on. So I didn't think it would matter. But I have been all over the computer and throttle body and sensors and all connectors looking for cracked, chafed, or otherwise bad wiring and couldn't find anything. I'm left to only lean towards a new throttle body, new throttle position sensor which is a whole pedal, or that the whole thing is 180 or 360 or whatever u want to call it, out. It ran fine before I tore it apart, just rattled. Already blew one motor, knew it needed done or I was gonna blow another, so I tore into it.

donbrew

Get the chains right, then maybe.

TDC is TDC when the cams are not hooked up. It is a 4 cycle 4 cylinder DOHC.

NEVER bother reading the description that a scanner presents. Plop the code into GoOgle and read a few of the results.

jakebenson6669

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thank you for the help, I will tear it down and try again. It will take me a little while because I have a full time job and four kids to tend to but I should have it kicked by the end of the weekend at least. I will let u know what happens. Last question though, if tdc is just tdc, what tells the coil pack when to fire? I'm assuming something on the cam then? The only thing on the cam is this block that is where the older twin cam motors had the power steering pump, which has no wires at all running to it, and the vacuum pump bolted to that block. I don't really understand what that is attached to the end of the cam but I always thought on the older ones it was stupid to have the power steering pump putting a load on only one cam, making it stress the chain just that little bit more. If I knew how to post a pic of the block I am talking about I would. It's on the intake cam opposite side of the gear. But with no wires, that wouldn't be able to tell the coils when to fire which cylinder. I read around that this year car has a recall on the ecu, which causes the symptoms I have and code I am getting. But my cry does not have a date of manufacture on it to see if it falls into the recall, it only reads all 0's where the date code should be. Would this be because the recalled part was already replaced or am I missing something? I really can't find any broken wiring at all, I only messed with maybe three plugs but all that I can see looks good.

firemangeorge

Oldblue

Timing marks are the crank keyway at 12 o'clock the timing mark at 5 o'clock, the intake mark at 2 o'clock and the exhaust at 10 o'clock
Your description indicates that the camshaft markings are off by one turn of the crankshaft.
The cam marks look like this



Your at TDC of the exhaust stroke, not the compression stroke.

donbrew

Follow the link in my sig. for posting pix.

After you put the chain on the camshaft position sensors and the crankshaft position sensor input to the computer which then makes spark. All of that is in your manual.

jakebenson6669

I 100% agree with you. I cannot beleive the car runs like that, and runs pretty decent I might add. But yea, one full turn of the crank would only turn the cams halfway. The camshaft being notched means they will only go on one way so it should have been just about impossible to screw up. I watched the video that was posted ten times before doing this on my car, but it never says anything about making sure your at TRUE tdc before tearing down, just says tdc. The diamond and triangle were reversed when I tore it apart cuz I definitely took notice to that, so I just thought somewhere someone got backwards. It didn't even occur to me that the cams only spin half the speed of the crank, and I figured if the cam symbols were backwards when I tore it down then I should be ok. I really appreciate all the help everyone. I hate dealing with timing. This job seemed fairly easy though so I hopped right into it. Again, I just can't beleive the car runs like this. Without giving me major issues like bent valves. Guess I just got lucky there. What it that block on the intake cam on the opposite end of the gear? It is aluminum, with two bolts, no wires or anything. Right where the power steering pump is on the earlier 90's 2.4 Chevy twin cam. What is the point of that block? Is there another model car that actually puts something there and it's just blocked off on my car?

jakebenson6669

I'm saying there is nothing at all hooked to wires to read my cams position? Where are these sensors located?

donbrew

Did this engine work before?

If it has a single spark pack the crankshaft position sensor does it all.

Oldblue

The 06, 2.2 would have the block in place of the old power steering pump.
It would run because it stopped in that position, you didn't turn the cams or the crankshaft.
Camshaft position sensors are at the transmission end of the engine in the head on either side