Won't start
If you have any doubts about the valves being slightly bent. With the head off and flipped over you could do the old school " fill the combustion chamber with fluid and look for leakage"
I think it would be easier to install the new cams, and then do a leak down test. Actually, I would do it before I put the cams in, if there's leakage into the crankcase, cut your losses, get a new or used engine.
GM recommends discarding most bolts. Nowhere do they say they are stretch bolts. I don't recall seeing any special markings on the head of the bolts, not even hardness. The torque spec being a torque plus torque angle is NOT make it TTY, that is just a more accurate way of doing it.
No way 22 lb. ft. + 100 degrees is going to stretch those bolts.
Make sure the threads are clean on both surfaces and not damaged. The important part is getting the base torque accurately set. Don't use anti seize or locktite very light application of motor oil to get an accurate base torque.
If you want to call them TTY do not use lock tite use a light coat of oil. If you use ARP bolts be sure to use ARP lubricant and the torque spec supplied by ARP not the manufacturer.
For your reading pleasure:
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/...gle-fastening/
No way 22 lb. ft. + 100 degrees is going to stretch those bolts.
Make sure the threads are clean on both surfaces and not damaged. The important part is getting the base torque accurately set. Don't use anti seize or locktite very light application of motor oil to get an accurate base torque.
If you want to call them TTY do not use lock tite use a light coat of oil. If you use ARP bolts be sure to use ARP lubricant and the torque spec supplied by ARP not the manufacturer.
For your reading pleasure:
https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/...gle-fastening/


