I asked about my intake last time it went to the shop for head work. Mechanic said as long as intake installed correctly and with all parts it would have no affect on warranty. Might save you some trouble next time.

Remember, that chart was made by socalhhr. He was asked numberous times to show his so called dyno runs and never showed that information. He was selling intakes and used this to get people to buy. SOme have actually shown dyno's of various intakes. 2-3hp is about all you might see with an intake on the HHR. The stock one flows extremely well.

And Mike (socalhhr) didn't stay with his HHR long, we pretty quickly sold it and bought a Jeep and was never heard from again. I'm guessing once he sold all his inventory.

^^^^^^^^True that^^^^^^^^^

"kid".......

You'll need to do your own research in determining what is best for you. You will get all sorts of claims, from each owner who has a particular named product. But the truth be known, NOBODY on this forum has posted before and after dyno reports to substantiate claims of 10 HP from this or 10 HP from that (as an example).

I think I still have mine from the GMPP intake, which was done by GM. If I can find them I will post. But I'll tell you straight up, it's 3 HP. Mine was free, so no money out of pocket. But I don't believe the increase in HP warrants the cost. Of course, the car is still factory tuned. A GOOD after market tune, from somebody like JoeR who really knows the characteristics of the Ecotec engines, would probably contribute to a synergistic effect.

As I said previously, a tune to accommodate ALL that has been installed, will maximize the efficiency of the ad-ons.

I doubt it very much. An 8 hp increase, mathematically computes to about a THIRD OF A SECOND. You're correct you did IMAGINE the difference.


http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=8

With the air aid setup I had I didn't notice much. Possibly a little more in the high rpm range. But it was mostly the sound that made it seem faster. After our trip to the other coast in my HHR right before I sold it, I got 32 mpg all interstate with the cruise at 68. So no increase in mileage like most claim as well. Just looks better under the hood and sounds better but don't really run any better

Honestly after buying this speed 3 and riding in some SS hhr's if you want a faster car just buy it. There's no way to get a non turbo HHR to move as quick. Sure if you got 2500 to dump into a supercharger you would be very close.

I guess I will have to do some research. I figured by now, there would be data on performance mods, but I guess that the average people who buy these are not interested in performance like the SS owners would be.

I have the K&N AND I installed the Hypertech unit. It sure FEELS like I added about 20hp from right off idle thru the midrange. I need some extra power because I consistently haul an extra 800 lbs every day. I feel a lot more torque steer now. The HYPERTECH definetly made a difference. And it comes with a money-back guarantee.:thumb:

I was also an LT1 B-body man (owned a '96 Impala SS, a '96 B4U Civi Caprice, a '94 9C1, and a '94 Wagon). They were all great cars, but those LT1s allowed such easy gains precisely because they were stifled from the factory (presumably to keep the elderly demographic happy with a quiet, smooth-sounding engine...and also to keep the Corvette owners happy to be top dog). In contrast, I think the 2.4L is already nearly max'd out (it's well over 1 HP/CI, for instance).

True, so true.
I may have to stuff a Intercooled hair drier on it at some point. :happydance:

25 is very doable with bolt ons. There is a forum similar to this one on the cobalt ss. At one time it ran with the same 2.4 ecotec as the hhr has. The kids post dynos on the parts they install. It can give you a good idea of what the same engine with the same specs will do in the hhr. I think the cobalt ss ended up getting supercharged with the 2.0. Also the base was the 2.2 on normal cobalts for folks who own the 2.2 hhr. Their engine was the same even down to HP/TQ. And they do 200 (calculated) flywheel HP with the normal cai, header/dp, under drive and fart can on the 2.4.

I ended up with a k&n box to replace the stock cai. It feeds with the same fender air hose. Then has a hole cut around the throttle body pipe. I just trimmed a little of the plastic above the radiator so it would blow fresh air into that hole. Went with a zzp header/dp and a straight through muffler with stainless packing. The best bang for the buck was the header/dp. There was a noticeable difference from the butt dyno. With an electric shift kit it went from an off the line bark and second chirp to about 10 ft of rubber off the line, a bark in second and a chirp in 3rd. The 4th to 2nd downfift up a mountain will also induce wheel spin when I forget to kick th cruise control off going up a steep grade.
As for the muffler and cai. I can't remember what the dyno results were. But it wasn't noticeable done separately. I think 10hp is what they say is required for that. BTW I didn't dyno, just going off of posted ones for a rough estimate. I just wanted to get better fuel economy and a little more power was the side effect.