Hey, so did you get the tmap sensor going? Im trying to find out if I can use the cobalt one to monitor the iat2, but I dunno if its tunable with hptuners. Which one did the kit come with?
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You can control timing via hpt with iats. When you use the following setup you lose iat1s, but iat2s is all that really matters for anyone boosting. The kit comes with a 2bar map sensor only(not tmap) sorry I looked for it, but could not find it.
I would assume the LSJ tmap sensor will work for us, but I got a 2.5 bar because I wasn't sure how much boost I was going to be pushing so I got these parts: http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1720 http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pro...oducts_id/1626 Then I spliced them into the system so I can read IAT2's with this diagram: http://www.cobaltss.net/gallery/file...ingDiagram.jpg |
Yup thats the same wiring and setup I was going to go with. It mounts ok in the manifold beside the sc?
So hpt has an option for using that 2.5 bar map sensor? I am getting a local guy with hpt to tune it, so I cant look at the file myself. I have 2.2 engine, but I would guess the tuning options are similar. So to read the iat2 you use an external guage or interceptor? |
Yup it mounts in the stock location. In hpt we do have access to the map calibration table so its no problem. Currently I am not using an external gauge for that, just hpt when I log. I am just using the AEM uego wideband and a boost gauge right now. I do want another more comprehensive gauge though. Any you have looked into or recommend?
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I would like to wire it up to the analog input of an aeroforce interceptor as they provide so much additional info, reset codes etc and are widely used.
It would require setting up according to the sensor output voltage. If you are able to log iat2 now using hpt, then measuring the voltage and cross-referencing with temperature values could give the required setting for the interceptor guage. Ive posted on other forums, but I dont know if anyone has done that yet. |
The Cobalt 2.5 bar sensor is fine for this. Just need to "transfer" the IAT signal from the MAF to the 2.5 MAP. That diagram above is not correct.
This should be done to keep the motor safe, period. |
Thank you for that Joe. Ill look up the diagram for the MAF wires.
Good to see ya posting again, hope all is well with you. |
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Supercharged is cool, but turbo gets better gas mileage. And we will still beat that ass :read:
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? Not sure where you're going with this, but I wouldn't even worry about a stock SS. And depending on mods, fuel economy is mostly the same. When I had stock compression and a 3.1 I was still getting 31mpg hwy. Lets turn this into a turbo is better thread.
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Originally Posted by Chevy13
(Post 647200)
Supercharged is cool, but turbo gets better gas mileage. And we will still beat that ass :read:
Total bunch of B.S. right there.^:lol: Except the "Supercharged is Cool" part of course. :cool: |
Originally Posted by hhrfreek
(Post 647438)
? Not sure where you're going with this, but I wouldn't even worry about a stock SS. And depending on mods, fuel economy is mostly the same. When I had stock compression and a 3.1 I was still getting 31mpg hwy. Lets turn this into a turbo is better thread.
Lets NOT, and just toss his sorry A** to the curb. :thumb: :lol: :skull: |
Mine is more fun when averaging 16, LOL, I should be ashamed.:lol:
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Shame? Don't be silly. If you're averaging 16 :twothumbs: that means you enjoy your car. Though that is a pretty awesome average...my worst is 19, mostly city and a lot of wot pulls. I may be able to beat that now though that I am on 80s/e85. :corny:
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Imitation is the highest form of flattery, so just remember if I paint my supercharger like yours...it's because I think yours looks sweet! I didn't want to copy you, but I still may.
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2 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Gary B
(Post 668505)
Imitation is the highest form of flattery, so just remember if I paint my supercharger like yours...it's because I think yours looks sweet! I didn't want to copy you, but I still may.
Jason did not seem to mind if I had, but I chose a different route for mine. I spent hours and hours sanding and fully polishing my M62 even the underside that will never be seen. :D Jason has since traded in his Supercharged HHR for a pretty Sweet Solstice. Before he traded it in, he got another stock motor and swapped it in the HHR. I bought a few of the parts off his supercharged 2.4 motor for my build. :D He put the 2.4 ZZP cams in with 78 valve springs and new retainers and he ported the head. And I got the Ecortec ARP head stud kit from him as well. Attachment 25361 I got some other parts and pullies as well, I won't need to be cutting one rib off my belt with these. ;) Attachment 25362 I think a Cobalt guy bought his Supercharger basic Kit from him. He did do a Nice job on his HHR I was sure hoping i'd get mine done sooner and we'd get some side by side Supercharged HHR shots since both of ours are Black and mines a Panel. Oh well, I took too long and he found a Sweet car before I got mine going. :lol: |
Ha Thanks!
I just pushed things a bit too far with my build. Balance shafts in the engine are a must on a dd. That little engine sends some crazy vibes through the car without them. Started burning a bit of oil as the control rings weren't sealing properly likely as a result of my honing. And after I got on e85 that dang clutch started slipping. I wouldn't go back even though it got a bit expensive. I learned a lot. Getting some SC HHR pics would have been very kewl AP, infact I still hope to see it in person when you're done! The Solstice is downright awesome to drive. |
Where did you get that heat shield looking thing on top of the SC? Thanks, Gary
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Originally Posted by Gary B
(Post 675334)
Where did you get that heat shield looking thing on top of the SC? Thanks, Gary
Thats just the way he Painted it. Painted half and sanded the other half to a brushed metal finish. Sanded the Ribs on the SC to expose them. :thumb: |
hey A&P, where did you get the valve cover? is that from a cobalt?
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and sorry for the noobie question this is all new to me..but where is the air filter? unless it is not needed with a supercharger?
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That is an 2.4l valve cover. Its the same on both HHR and Cobalt. AP actually bought that one from me with the head. I painted it black and sanded off the raised ecotec vvt lettering. The air filter location is not shown in any of the pictures, but I routed a cai down to the void just behind the fog light area on the fascia. It was pretty easy to do with a few couplers and tubing.
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so the 2.4 will fit no problem on a 2.2? gota find me one of those and paint it nicely like that too
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2.4 Supercharger install
OK so I started to do my Supercharger upgrade today.
So far I am not impressed. I was under the impression that this was a nice and easy bolt on install. Not so far. The 2.4 intake is held on with smaller hardware (it is plastic). 6MM instead of 8MM. The lower intake support bracket has holes in it for 6MM threaded bolts and the 2.4 block has 8MM threaded holes. I am not sure about the alternator, A/C compressor, charge air radiator, etc. I bought the Cobalt SS intercooler (charge air radiator) and the factory brackets and it does not appear that any of that will work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Gary |
Since the HHR's never came with a factory supercharger, why would you think it would just bolt up? Any custom installation is going to take some custom fabrication.
Maybe "American and Proud" will answer here and give you some pointers. He has had to find a bunch of extra parts getting ready for his supercharger install. Good Luck. |
Originally Posted by firemangeorge
(Post 676571)
Since the HHR's never came with a factory supercharger, why would you think it would just bolt up? Any custom installation is going to take some custom fabrication.
Maybe "American and Proud" will answer here and give you some pointers. He has had to find a bunch of extra parts getting ready for his supercharger install. Good Luck. :lol: |
easy
Fireman George,
I was not expecting to not have to do any custom mods, but I thought that the intake manifold bolts would be the same size and the holes in the block would be the same. I am not sure that I want to drill out the holes in the cylinder head. |
You don't need to do any drilling on the engine. Use 6mm fasteners for the IM and as for the lower IM bracket, drill that out to accept an 8mm fastener. I removed my fascia and drilled holes in my bumper and bolted a piece of 3/16 steel about 3" long by 1 1/2". Then I used the 2 inner tabs on the heat exchanger and fastened them to those brackets. You just have to make sure the HE is in far enough in to clear the fascia. With an SS fascia you may have a bit more room. I removed the outer 2 tabs of the 4 that are on the HE. The mounting of the HE was by far the most frustrating part of the install.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Gary B
(Post 676562)
OK so I started to do my Supercharger upgrade today.
So far I am not impressed. I was under the impression that this was a nice and easy bolt on install. Not so far. The 2.4 intake is held on with smaller hardware (it is plastic). 6MM instead of 8MM. The lower intake support bracket has holes in it for 6MM threaded bolts and the 2.4 block has 8MM threaded holes. I am not sure about the alternator, A/C compressor, charge air radiator, etc. I bought the Cobalt SS intercooler (charge air radiator) and the factory brackets and it does not appear that any of that will work. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Gary http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/2-2l-...thread-208355/ I took my main parts off a 2.0 motor directly so I took all the bolts as well. Ordered a few I needed from the Dealer. I don't think your gonna fit the Stock Cobalt SS/SC intercooler radiator in the HHR, Maybe. But not a straight bolt in. This is the type your gonna want. Fits behind the bumper but under the bumper crash bar. Expect to do some Modifications to fit it in. Attachment 25018 Are you going with a 5 or 6 rib belt install? Our pullies are 5 Rib. The 2.0 has 6 ribs. The ZZP "KIT" is set up for 5 rib install, you can check with ZZP for more info on that. You can do a 5 rib by cutting one rib off the Belt. I have taken my time getting my parts in order, and read and reread these type supercharger threads and anything to do with a supercharger on a 2.2 or 2.4. Took Notes on my own from each thread/reply. You Can't just swap the main parts without the Proper Bolts that go along with them. You'll need to look those threads over I posted links to and check each one to see the sized bolts you'll need. Some guys were missing the ALT. bolts and mention the sizes they went and got, some were missing the Intake Manifold bolts and had to get those. Ect. The LSJ (2.0) Alt. bracket bolts are longer than our 2.4 Alt bolts so you'll need those, as an example. Now back to 5 or 6 ribs, I am going full 6 ribs. I got all the pullies from the 2.0 with the bolts, got the AC and the crank pully from hhrfreek, so I can just be done with it the first time, in case I ever want to go to a smaller pully on the SC. You said you were sticking to the OEM Stock pully so a 5 rib install is fine for your install. You'll just need to carefully cut 1 rib off the Belt. I bought the harnesses from ZZP, 6 to 8 pin throttle body adapter harness and the map/maf extension harness so I would Not have to cut into my wiring harness for those. The intercooler Pump you'll have to tap into the fuel pump wires or use a add a circuit at the fuse box from it to run your IC Pump. Like the fuel pump, when the key is on, you'll want your IC Pump to be on. Then you'll need to tap into your harness for the 2.5 Map sensor that on the intake manifold from the 2.0. You might want to start a "Installing my Supercharger" thread on the CobaltSS forums and get some help as you run into stuff as you go. ;) Here there is only 3 or 5 ? HHR's that have done this swap so far. I plan on taking LOTs of pics and updating my thread here once I start, not as a full blown How To but will be close I hope. No offence meant and please don't take it that way, but how much research into this major performance project have you done? hhrfreek and lunchbox have both done theirs from the ZZP Kit, joeR did his before a kit was around. So hopefully they can help you out too. Do you know about "Dual Pass" and "Option B" set ups for the cooling system? Do you have the Gauges your gonna need? Boost gauge and a wideband air/fuel gauge. Tuning sorted out? Trifecta or HPTuners? I'm not a mechanic, I have taken well Over a year in Prep as I have slowly collected my parts reading and talking to people about this swap behind the scenes here and on the Cobalt forums getting ready for my install. I have double, tripled and quadruple checked and rechecked everything I could to avoid any surprizes when I start mine. I am sure once I start, I will find out I forgot something, but I am trying to avoid that as much as possible before I ever start the project. I am more than willing to help you as much as I can, but I havent even started mine yet. Currently I am looking for the ZZP dual pass end plate for the intake manifold, was gonna do it later, but decided just to get it and do it now. I don't care if I start this week or next Spring, I Won't start until I have everything needed to do it right. I could have started install awhile ago, but not rushing into it. Once I have the dual pass end plate, (ZZP is out of stock) basically all I have left is finding a HP Tuner that I Trust that he knows wtf he is doing and Hopefully Local to me. I won't loosen one bolt until thats sorted out first. A Haynes or Chiltons Cobalt service manual will help you out, check them out at the auto parts stores and look at info on the SS/SC, it will come in handy for you. PICS will Help you out ALOT as you go, for yourself and for asking questions as you go. :thumb: |
Originally Posted by hhrfreek
(Post 676586)
You don't need to do any drilling on the engine. Use 6mm fasteners for the IM and as for the lower IM bracket, drill that out to accept an 8mm fastener. I removed my fascia and drilled holes in my bumper and bolted a piece of 3/16 steel about 3" long by 1 1/2". Then I used the 2 inner tabs on the heat exchanger and fastened them to those brackets. You just have to make sure the HE is in far enough in to clear the fascia. With an SS fascia you may have a bit more room. I removed the outer 2 tabs of the 4 that are on the HE. The mounting of the HE was by far the most frustrating part of the install.
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so with the reading I have done with this thread, It wouldn't be too crazy to twin charge the SS. The forged internals are already there, the crank and other components are built for boost. so with some cash and/or ZZP's kit, you could put this together rather quickly and relatively cheap. I wonder what kind of tuning would be needed to do this though?
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Supercharger install
A&P thank you for the lengthy response.
I am an ASE certified Master Technician and did it for a living for seventeen years. I am in no rush either. I have all Winter to sort it out. I have most everything that I need with the exception of the Tune equipment. I was just very surprised to find out that the bolt holes were different sizes. I will get through it. Thanks for the help. |
Supercharger install
A&P, I did not say that I was going with stock pulleys (meaning five rib) I am going with the stock S/C pulley. I already have all of the six rib pieces, and the proper belt. My A/C compressor looks as though it may be different and I may have to use the compressor that I purchased from the Cobalt SS website. I bought the whole compressor to get the pulley. I have the balancer, idler, tensioner and all of that. That was what I thought I was going to do today, but I did not quite get there. Thanks again, Gary
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1 Attachment(s)
OK Cool Gary. :thumb:
Sounds like you know what your in for then. Being a ASE Mechanic your way ahead of me on that front. Either way on the AC, I believe your gonna have to redo your AC charge from what I was told. Swapping out to 6 rib. Hope the one I got matches mine to make the swap I just got whats shown here. Left side in pic. Attachment 25017 Start a seperate thread here and on the Cobalt forum and you'll have a seperate install thread we can all try helping you out if you have any other questions. And Please take and post Lots of pics along the way. ;) I'm going to start a thread there once I start mine just so I can share and get Help as needed. Ive done tons of reading and asking but I will ask more questions as I install. You know about metals reacting to one another I am sure, I see alot of guys just running to home depot for steel bolts in aluminum. I am trying to use all the GM bolts I can, I want them matching, looking oem stock, and being able to unassemble later if needed. Good luck with you HHR Supercharger install, like I said before, the more the merrier. :twothumbs: |
Supercharger install
A&P, the Cobalt SS A/C compressor I bought had a Torx screw in the end of it. When you take that screw out you can pull the outer clutch plate right off (you used to need a puller to remove it). There was two washers underneath that set the clutch spacing. There was a snap-ring underneath that holds the pulley on and then one more holding the clutch coil. There would be no need to discharge the system in this case. My '07 has the old style with a nut on the end of a shaft and I will probably need a puller to work on it. I am not sure about the discharge status. FWIW
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Supercharger install
A&P, Oh yeah, I forgot, I agree with you on the bolts and I ordered all kinds of them right from GM because I want the same thing. I want the car looking like it came from the factory with a Supercharger! I even bought the factory "Supercharger" emblems.:thumb:
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Gary I dealt specifically with this. I broke that torx bolt off trying to loosen it thinking I could just swap pulleys. GM uses a thread locker on that bolt and it does not want to back off without heat. It would be easiest to swap the pulleys by simply swapping compressors and recharging the system. They do interchange. Its just hard to work in that pace to get a good angle at that bolt. If you get that bolt off on the car props to you! No puller is needed to get the pulley off, but the spacing with the washers is important for the clutch engagement. The lock ring is all that holds the pulley in place.
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@badass:
A straight turbo setup yields the best, most reliable power with the lnf. A SC would complicate things. |
Supercharger install
HHRfreek, what did you have on your HHR for an air cleaner and intake tube? I cannot tell from the photos. Thanks
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I routed it down and behind the fog light area. I used a few 3" tubes and couplers with a KN cone type filter. I didn't have ABS in my HHR so I had plenty of room to route it down. You can also set it up to route back over the valve cover, but a CAI of some sort would be ideal with a SC.
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