Running Board Removal
06-01-2010, 12:40 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-07-2009
Location: Spokane, Wa.
Posts: 63
Running Board Removal
What all has to be undone to get the running boards off? Any pics? I have an '07 Panel LT thanks....
Last edited by 'Lil Red Wagon; 06-01-2010 at 12:42 PM. Reason: add more info
06-01-2010, 12:59 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: 02-06-2010
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 580
Why?
Why would anyone want to remove running boards? There are lots of posts about how people ADD them to avoid road debris damage, rather than just for looks. Are you planning to replace them with something else?
06-01-2010, 01:05 PM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-07-2009
Location: Spokane, Wa.
Posts: 63
I have some polished billet running board caps and they have to be bolted on so I need to get the boards off so I can remove the factory black caps and have the proper room to drill the new mounting holes. Any and all info and pics will be greatly appreciated as I don't want to do any damage in the process. They will be going right back on when I get the new caps on.
06-01-2010, 01:10 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 09-14-2007
Location: xxxxx-xx
Posts: 1,441
might want to read this thread and do the reverse https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...hlight=install
06-01-2010, 01:24 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: 03-19-2009
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 296
My corner before the wheel well looks bad and has oxidation I need to get it buffed out bad.
06-01-2010, 08:29 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: 06-09-2009
Location: Clinton, Mass
Posts: 2,950
You might want to invest in a running board removal tool unless you're friends with someone at a body shop that'll let you borrow one.
It's basically a bent flat bar with a handle and correct notches to get in and squeeze the clips so they (most of them) don't break.
It was still a bi+ch with it but doable, I wouldn't want to attempt it without one.
Use tape on the bar or it'll scratch your paint even if you're very careful.
I love my running boards, 10x better than the SS flares and I can stand on them to dry the roof (5'8")
Before
After
It's basically a bent flat bar with a handle and correct notches to get in and squeeze the clips so they (most of them) don't break.
It was still a bi+ch with it but doable, I wouldn't want to attempt it without one.
Use tape on the bar or it'll scratch your paint even if you're very careful.
I love my running boards, 10x better than the SS flares and I can stand on them to dry the roof (5'8")
Before
After
06-01-2010, 09:16 PM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-07-2009
Location: Spokane, Wa.
Posts: 63
Thanks to all, I really appreciate the input. After looking under the wagon I've decided to just remove the black runningboard caps (I don't plan on putting them back on) and bolt the polished billet caps in place, I don't want to damage them and end up paying a ton for replacements. When winter comes around I'll just remove the aluminum, wax the paint well, and run the boards bear, I never step on them anyway. These are show caps so I don't want them to get corroded by the ice melt liquid they spray (pour) on the streets here in Spokane, Wa.. My next step is installing Cobalt turbo coupe rear springs to level out the stance. From what I've seen on this site it's not all that complicated.
