Bass Drops in & Out
 

So my new sub setup was working perfect until yesterday. When driving ( first 10 min are ok) The bass drops out, and I noticed when i brake or gas, it acts as a horrible on/off switch! Turning the bass on for a few sec. till i hit another pedal then it goes off. Sometimes switches without touching the pedals. Got any ideas? Its killin me, and im sure not to good for the amp either. I checked all my connections, they are all perfect. I cant figure it out! HELP!?>??????

Need more info. What did you use for remote power? Is it the stock headunit? Premium speakers? How did you get low level? Where did you ground?

hmmm sounds like it might be a loose ground or an input jack(RCA) is grounding out or ya I dont know I hate finding shorts!!!!!

Looking at the set up, you have to have a loose ground. You are not running enough sound to tax the electrical at all. I am not a pro at all, but if you are running a stock headunit with no amps, you just do not have enough power to push that sub! Todd (Uma)

Alright, so I took it to the guys who put in my signal converter (stock headunit) They Fixed the remote wire, so now the popping stopped...thank god. Instead of the pink wire on the stereo they found an accessorie connetion. Thats fixed. The Sub stayed on for a bit longer following there repair. I am thinking were i have my amp mounted. Its between the removable tabletop and the plastic covering the spare. Im thinking that it might be overheating.... Anyone have the same problem? Any solutions?

The "Pink" wire should work. It works for me. I am thinking maybe you don't want to take it to those guys anymore. Now what LOC did they use? I ask because you need a specific (expensive) one to work with our/GM stereos due to the Databus system. If they are trying to rig something up (using some ACC wire instead of the pink) then you will most likely run into strange issues. It kind of sounds like that is what they are doing but I can't say for sure? As for the overheating, that too could be a wiring thing. For example: If you have an amp rated at only 4 ohms and they wired it down to 2 ohms (DVC sub wired parallel or 2 subs wired together in parallel) then it will overheat and cut in and out. Give us brands and specs of you equipment and maybe we can help you more ;)

Alex,

I have three amplifiers that are located in the same area. I have had no overheating issues whatsoever. It's highly probable you have another issue. There are a couple of people on the board (Razorlite, for one) that will probably be able to help you out.

Give me a few hours( Workin') and ill list the specs. thanks for the help. And by the way i do have a fusion 800watt amp powering my 10" mtx. check back tonight, or tommorow and ill have them up here.... !


Added Note: I do have thw 10" bridged to the amp, maybe if i have time i can find my amp/sub online. Hmmm..... thank you for the internet!

AMP-
http://www.vanhorn1.com/index.asp?Pa...ROD&ProdID=589

SUB-
http://pix.crutchfield.com/products/...6T4124A_f.jpeg

I couldn't find you subwoofer specs but it looked like most MTX subs were either single 4 ohm or dual 4 ohm voice coils. That would put you at 2 ohms minimum if you had a DVC sub. The amp you posted is stable to 2 ohms mono so you should be good there. I still think something is up with your wiring because of the fact that the "Pink" wire is not being used. If you have the pink wire I would assume that you had the amplified Pioneer system? Because if you didn't the LOC usually provides its own remote wire via the databus signal from the radio. Get us the rest of the info and I'm sure we can figure it out.

I dont have the premium system. Its just basic 4 speaker system for the ls. The pink wire was causing the sub to pop when i opened doors and the gate. Even after i locked/armed it.... I think cus of the RAS??? Anyways, he set the remote to a Accesorie location under the steering colum. Ignition acc? And what does LOC stand for?