I replaced my 8" sub (again).
Senior Member
Joined: 09-11-2005
Posts: 829
From: McLoud, Oklahoma
Oh you are the man! :) I love my ddr. My two metal pads just got delivered yesterday. Now I get to try out 8 panel. And I am a ddr freak. Every ddr game for every console except gamecube's mario ddr. Along with stepmania on my pc that is hooked up to my tv and my stepmania has well over 1,000 songs.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 02-23-2006
Posts: 629
From: Oklahoma
No, I left the stock box intact. I did have to remove it in order to get the stock sub out. It has a bolt in the back that holds it in.
I covered the box, the back side of the panel, and the back of my license plate in Road Kill sound deadner
I located my amp in the rear under all the trim panels next to the battery and spare tire.
Out of sight out of mind. I don't have any rattles outside the car and very minor one inside. I need to crank it up, crawl in the back and try to find those.
I covered the box, the back side of the panel, and the back of my license plate in Road Kill sound deadner
I located my amp in the rear under all the trim panels next to the battery and spare tire.
Out of sight out of mind. I don't have any rattles outside the car and very minor one inside. I need to crank it up, crawl in the back and try to find those.
Senior Member
Joined: 01-06-2006
Posts: 224
From: Long Island, NY
Originally Posted by monster5601
Right. The speaker will disperse the most energy if the speaker’s impedance (with respect to the speaker wires) matches the output impendence of the amplifier. Efficiency is achieved by matching the speaker’s impedance to the amplifier's output impedance. All amplifiers are designed with a optimal output impedance and that is the impedance you want to set your speakers at.
The 50w@4 ohms and 100w@2 ohms is correct as long as the amplifier is designed to produce the voltage and current need to push the signal into the speaker load. Check your amplifier's specifications, it should show the load and power ratings it is designed to operate at.
Speakers are rated at a nominal (or average) resistance because they do not offer a constant resistance value.
When working with AC as we are with audio signals, we must consider the effective values of the voltage and the current often referred to as the RMS values. The analog to Ohm’s laws is I = V/Z where I is current, V is voltage and Z is impedance.
Just to be politically correct, resistance is the opposition of direct current (DC) flow and impedance is the opposition of alternating current (AC) flow.
The 50w@4 ohms and 100w@2 ohms is correct as long as the amplifier is designed to produce the voltage and current need to push the signal into the speaker load. Check your amplifier's specifications, it should show the load and power ratings it is designed to operate at.
Speakers are rated at a nominal (or average) resistance because they do not offer a constant resistance value.
When working with AC as we are with audio signals, we must consider the effective values of the voltage and the current often referred to as the RMS values. The analog to Ohm’s laws is I = V/Z where I is current, V is voltage and Z is impedance.
Just to be politically correct, resistance is the opposition of direct current (DC) flow and impedance is the opposition of alternating current (AC) flow.
Furthermore...
Ohm's Law can be broken down into a bunch of different equations-
E=P/I E=I*R E=SQR(P*R)
I=P/E I=E/R I=SQR(P/R)
P=I*E P=E2/R P=I2*R
R=E2/P R=E/I R=P/I2
P = Power in Watts
E = Electromotive Force in Volts
I = Electrical Current in Amps
R = Electrical Resistance in Ohms
Also, on the note of impedance- it'll shoot all over the place, due to impedance rise, and back emf (back electromagnetic force)- while I don't know all that much about back emf, basically the voice coil of a speaker will tend to oscillate on its own, at this point, iit kills the magnetic field, which in turn creates current in the coil, which creates a magnetic field on the coil, which fights with the magnetic field...
Thus, makes the VC shoot up in impedance. If you have a RMS meter and a clamp meter, you can actually chart the impedance over a given frequency band. It's fun to see a '4 ohm' speaker shoot up to 15 ohms :)
Senior Member
Joined: 12-18-2005
Posts: 1,791
From: Middle Village, NY
SoCal-Plenty of bass, but less trunk space
There is enough room for the amp and the cargo cover to fit??
Is the signal from the stock head unit high or low level (in other words, does it use RCA preamp cables? I have a nice 8 inch sub but it is not DVC. Could I wire in a single voice coil sub, or should I buy a dual one?
On a side note, I spoke with a tech from Soundgate. See my next post.
There is enough room for the amp and the cargo cover to fit??
Is the signal from the stock head unit high or low level (in other words, does it use RCA preamp cables? I have a nice 8 inch sub but it is not DVC. Could I wire in a single voice coil sub, or should I buy a dual one?
On a side note, I spoke with a tech from Soundgate. See my next post.
Senior Member
Joined: 10-14-2005
Posts: 5,359
From: SoCal
Originally Posted by Navyflyer11
SoCal, what amp do you have pushin those 12's?
I have a Pioneer 300-watt monoblock sub amp running at 2-ohms feeding the subs. It is mounted in the tray beneath the floor.
Man you guys are weezy - I've hauled a ton of stuff back there by sliding the box to one side and flipping down 1 side of the rear seat.
Today I hauled 2 garage cabinets (KD), and a 24 x 78" DOOR!!! All with my bandpass box in the car.
I would surely have enough room to haul a hockey equipment bag!