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will this fit into the stock sub box
will a JL 8"w3 fit into the stock sub box and how would it really sound?
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I put a 8" KICKER CompCVT8 Shallow Sub Woofer into my stock box. It has about 1/2" clearance from the bottom of it. I also have 200 watts going into it and the sound blows away the stock sub. I'm very happy with this amount of bass and I still have all my storage room left.
Careful with how deep the sub you want fits into the box. Make sure it will fit. |
The key to getting a woofer to behave correctly is matching enclosure to the driver. The reverse approach rarely works out, except in rare cases, and usually only with sealed enclosures. Unless you're intimately familiar with the terms Fs, Vas, Qts, F3, and Xmax, your results will be random at best. Vented enclosure math is doubly complicated. Although most people who invest time and money into woofers manage to convince themselves it sounds "good," correct results are purely scientific, not subjective.
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In the hole for the sub woofer is the wiring in place to add the sub or what needs to be done ?
popapina |
Originally Posted by mistermike
(Post 380075)
The key to getting a woofer to behave correctly is matching enclosure to the driver. The reverse approach rarely works out, except in rare cases, and usually only with sealed enclosures. Unless you're intimately familiar with the terms Fs, Vas, Qts, F3, and Xmax, your results will be random at best. Vented enclosure math is doubly complicated. Although most people who invest time and money into woofers manage to convince themselves it sounds "good," correct results are purely scientific, not subjective.
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The big question I have is can you run the Kicker CVT with the stock amp and if you can (2 ohm, DVC?) how will it sound compared to the factory cone?
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My suggestion is to run a seperate amp with line level inputs. Get the line levels pre-amp from the head unit or use a converter to RCA style. The reason is that the stock amp might not handle the Sub depending on how you want to wire it, and also the RMS output needed for clean sub usage might be more than the RMS output of the stock amp. If the stock amp has the proper RMS output in minimum wattage needed for the sub, then it is okay as long as you have the correct Ohms load for that amp. So if you want to run a 2 ohm DVC setup they will have to be wired in series to get a 4 ohm load for the stock amp. If you use a aftermarket amp you should look for on that meets RMS values needed with out exceeding max RMS of the sub. Then check to the Ohm load capabilities of the amp and find one that suits the sub either in a parallel or series configuration. So you might get a cheaper amp that pumps 200 watts RMS to your sub at 1 ohm. This means you will need to parallel a 2 ohm DVC sub. It is all in what you have to spend and what matches up. I am also looking at the Kicker. It sounds nice in my friends car. I installed for a living when I was in my early twenties, and I still do some custom work for buddies. So I can assure you that you don't need to break the math down too much at these lower power levels to have a decent sounding system. Just check out how much airspace in in the stock enclosure before you decide on a sub, because that will make a difference. I believe that someone posted it on the forums and the Kicker was a super close match. hope that helps
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What brand/model subs are people using in the factory location? I would really like to put a 10" in there. I know Kenwood and Pioneer make shallow mount subs that should work. What about lesser known brands like Elemental Designs? Also, are you guys getting a lot of exterior rattle when you upgrade the sub? If so, where are you soundproofing? Obviously the gate, license plate and maybe around the spare tire are key areas, but what else?
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Originally Posted by wraunch
(Post 380320)
What brand/model subs are people using in the factory location?
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How hard is it to upgrade the stock sub? I want to run a 10" RF shallow mount but i am not sure if it will fit. I suck when it comes to anything audio.
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