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-   -   will this fit into the stock sub box (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/audio-video-17/will-fit-into-stock-sub-box-23327/)

relicstone Apr 30, 2009 01:29 PM

will this fit into the stock sub box
 
will a JL 8"w3 fit into the stock sub box and how would it really sound?

Rcflyboy Apr 30, 2009 07:28 PM

I put a 8" KICKER CompCVT8 Shallow Sub Woofer into my stock box. It has about 1/2" clearance from the bottom of it. I also have 200 watts going into it and the sound blows away the stock sub. I'm very happy with this amount of bass and I still have all my storage room left.

Careful with how deep the sub you want fits into the box. Make sure it will fit.

mistermike May 1, 2009 08:00 AM

The key to getting a woofer to behave correctly is matching enclosure to the driver. The reverse approach rarely works out, except in rare cases, and usually only with sealed enclosures. Unless you're intimately familiar with the terms Fs, Vas, Qts, F3, and Xmax, your results will be random at best. Vented enclosure math is doubly complicated. Although most people who invest time and money into woofers manage to convince themselves it sounds "good," correct results are purely scientific, not subjective.

popapina May 1, 2009 08:49 AM

In the hole for the sub woofer is the wiring in place to add the sub or what needs to be done ?
popapina

IgottaWoody May 1, 2009 09:38 PM


Originally Posted by mistermike (Post 380075)
The key to getting a woofer to behave correctly is matching enclosure to the driver. The reverse approach rarely works out, except in rare cases, and usually only with sealed enclosures. Unless you're intimately familiar with the terms Fs, Vas, Qts, F3, and Xmax, your results will be random at best. Vented enclosure math is doubly complicated. Although most people who invest time and money into woofers manage to convince themselves it sounds "good," correct results are purely scientific, not subjective.

Good way to put it...but....unless your a complete fanatic who competes using sound level meters and such, subjective is the way to go, for the average driver who only wants a 'decent' sounding system without having to spend weeks and hard earned $$ on experimental enclosures and sound equipment to make it paper perfect.Nobody has the perfect ear and everybody has their own idea on how they want it to sound, lets face it,most people are tone deaf. The other driving factor is space, most vehicles are multiuse therefore cannot afford to give up the necessary space needed to make the system paper perfect, so we compromise and build to suit ones own ears. Don't get me wrong, I'm not knocking it, I'm just saying its ok to be subjective, and for the average Joe, thats just fine.

silvertoy May 2, 2009 12:50 AM

The big question I have is can you run the Kicker CVT with the stock amp and if you can (2 ohm, DVC?) how will it sound compared to the factory cone?

HHR 'Black Death' May 2, 2009 02:04 AM

My suggestion is to run a seperate amp with line level inputs. Get the line levels pre-amp from the head unit or use a converter to RCA style. The reason is that the stock amp might not handle the Sub depending on how you want to wire it, and also the RMS output needed for clean sub usage might be more than the RMS output of the stock amp. If the stock amp has the proper RMS output in minimum wattage needed for the sub, then it is okay as long as you have the correct Ohms load for that amp. So if you want to run a 2 ohm DVC setup they will have to be wired in series to get a 4 ohm load for the stock amp. If you use a aftermarket amp you should look for on that meets RMS values needed with out exceeding max RMS of the sub. Then check to the Ohm load capabilities of the amp and find one that suits the sub either in a parallel or series configuration. So you might get a cheaper amp that pumps 200 watts RMS to your sub at 1 ohm. This means you will need to parallel a 2 ohm DVC sub. It is all in what you have to spend and what matches up. I am also looking at the Kicker. It sounds nice in my friends car. I installed for a living when I was in my early twenties, and I still do some custom work for buddies. So I can assure you that you don't need to break the math down too much at these lower power levels to have a decent sounding system. Just check out how much airspace in in the stock enclosure before you decide on a sub, because that will make a difference. I believe that someone posted it on the forums and the Kicker was a super close match. hope that helps

wraunch May 2, 2009 08:17 AM

What brand/model subs are people using in the factory location? I would really like to put a 10" in there. I know Kenwood and Pioneer make shallow mount subs that should work. What about lesser known brands like Elemental Designs? Also, are you guys getting a lot of exterior rattle when you upgrade the sub? If so, where are you soundproofing? Obviously the gate, license plate and maybe around the spare tire are key areas, but what else?

tahenke May 2, 2009 01:49 PM


Originally Posted by wraunch (Post 380320)
What brand/model subs are people using in the factory location?

RE Audio 8" DVC 4ohm. I have it reverse mounted in the factory box for a tiny bit more airspace and its running off an aftermarket amplifier. It plays very low, loud and clean....good for all types of music. I also stuffed the enclosure with polyfill and covered it with sound deadening material. Peoples jaws hit the floor when they first hear it and then take a look in the back and see that tiny subwoofer ;)

bad03xtreme May 10, 2011 10:24 AM

How hard is it to upgrade the stock sub? I want to run a 10" RF shallow mount but i am not sure if it will fit. I suck when it comes to anything audio.


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