Aftermarket Sway Bar Links
#1
Aftermarket Sway Bar Links
Hello,
I just installed Whiteline KLC175 aftermarket sway bar links. I don’t have pictures but you can see the product on the link I provided. I was tired of changing my Moog sway bar links every 15k -20k miles. I Drive over 20k a year so I was replacing them quite often. I had overkill engineering sway bar links on and they were terrible, noisy and would hit my A- Arm because the lowest adjustment was around 12 inches.. So far the Whitelines are quit and work well,, time will tell if they hold up to a lowered suspension and pot hole infested roads where I live.
WHITELINE KLC175 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
I just installed Whiteline KLC175 aftermarket sway bar links. I don’t have pictures but you can see the product on the link I provided. I was tired of changing my Moog sway bar links every 15k -20k miles. I Drive over 20k a year so I was replacing them quite often. I had overkill engineering sway bar links on and they were terrible, noisy and would hit my A- Arm because the lowest adjustment was around 12 inches.. So far the Whitelines are quit and work well,, time will tell if they hold up to a lowered suspension and pot hole infested roads where I live.
WHITELINE KLC175 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
#3
#6
I thought the Moogs would work much better as well, and they did for a while, i always greased them and such. but like i said for my situation, the lowered suspension, and the messed up roads here i could only get 15k-20k out of them before they went and they made noise and caused vibration...
#8
Mine all have Moog links, no problems at all, and the ones on the '06 have been on for over 200,000 miles.
I grease 'em every 3,000 miles when I change the oil, I think that on lowered suspensions, the altered geometry might be putting the Moogs into a bind if you go past a certain point.
But in pbatmen's case, the Whiteline adjustable links are the way to go.
Once you drop a suspension down, all of the geometry is altered to a degree, which is why I get nervous around "Riced" Honda's and the like. Those kids are dropping them with stacks of washers/nuts and all sorts of "backyard engineering" that'll get them killed if they're unlucky.
A case in point.
I grease 'em every 3,000 miles when I change the oil, I think that on lowered suspensions, the altered geometry might be putting the Moogs into a bind if you go past a certain point.
But in pbatmen's case, the Whiteline adjustable links are the way to go.
Once you drop a suspension down, all of the geometry is altered to a degree, which is why I get nervous around "Riced" Honda's and the like. Those kids are dropping them with stacks of washers/nuts and all sorts of "backyard engineering" that'll get them killed if they're unlucky.
A case in point.
#9
Mine is dropped 1 3/4 inches up front and 2 1/4 inches out back, settled height after approximately 125,000 miles on my Canuck Motorsport coils, KYB struts and shocks
And my alignment numbers are with in the factory specs, no shims or camber bolts , no elongated holes in the strut towers.
The Moog sway bar links and LCA bearing bushing and Energy Suspension sway bar bushing are just the ticket
No more rattles bumps brake judder or nose dive under braking
And my alignment numbers are with in the factory specs, no shims or camber bolts , no elongated holes in the strut towers.
The Moog sway bar links and LCA bearing bushing and Energy Suspension sway bar bushing are just the ticket
No more rattles bumps brake judder or nose dive under braking