Alignment Cam Bolts..
 

I have been working on my car little at a time, got rear done and one side of front. I read mixed reviews on wether or not their neede, I opted to get them just to be safe. I'm not so sure about them, being they are smaller in diameter due to the cam area. I guess the bolt end of it is ok but the other end is loose in the strut hole, it just seems like it would not do the job it's made to do very well if it has a chance to move around in the larger diameter hole in strut. Did anyone else find this concerning or am I just a worry wart?
I have a couple more questions..is there a good way to get the sway bar nuts off without the bolts spinning on you? An easier way to get the pressed bolts back in, that thing was a bear! They came out easy enough.

Unless you are slamming the thing on the ground you don't need to use camber bolts. If you are and end up using them don't fret. Yes they are a bit smaller due to the cam portion but you're only using 1 per side , the lower stock bolt will be doing most of the weight bearing. I've never heard of anyone having issues with them breaking.

For the sway bar end link bolts I used a 3/8 air impact which got them off and on before they could spin very much but if you don't have one available you can use a flat cone wrench on the endlink side of the stud. (unsure of size , guessing around 15mm?) Same deal for the strut bolts I used an air hammer to get them out and back in but it could defiantly be done with a dead blow hammer and a punch.. I quit doing suspension with hand tools for a reason, it sucks! :twothumbs:

The load isnt on the bolt....the load is in the "squeeze" of the bolt against the strut sides

PhoS I tried a air hammer and all I have is like a center punch looking chisel for it and it really didn't faze it. I appreciate the info on the rest though, little more at ease. Thought about a little grease on the stud before putting back in to see if that would help, not a lot of room to swing my 22oz hammer. I finally got smart and moved the brake caliper out of my way.

Agreed, that the majority of it is yes.


Hit up the hardware store and get a 4" hammer bit for it , I got snap ons version for like $15 bucks on ebay specifically for this job :thumb:

Ok everything went great on the other side, no problems at all and the air hammer worked great, thanks for the info. I still don't like how those cam bolts are designed, I'm sure they will work but the little tab that sticks out for positive and negative adjustment is not a very good design in my opinion. It would be if the tab could not travel so much, tab toward wheel positive, away from wheel negative but that tab travels almost all the way around without the cam bolt even moving. I think it should have been stationary on the bolt so you could tell if it was pos. or neg. I could have turned the tab away from the tire and still been
pos. with the play it has. Wasn't sure which way to set them so I think I have them both set to pos. Almost took them out and said the heck with them!

Should place a mark on the bolt head to align with the cam high point so u always know what position its in....saves time twisting it around to find it..

Good point, may have to pop them out and do that.

Should I go back in and set the cam bolts to 0 degree, I prolly ought to check them again anyway. Like I said I think their set all the way pos., the wheels look like they could be tilted in but I have not drove it since I took it off the jack.

Unless something is bent, they are not needed. Camber change with lowering is very small and should still be within specs.

Take 'em off and sell 'em on eBay!