Trying to track down front end noise and I think I'm getting close. After wearing out my 2nd set of LCAs, I replaced the reward bushing with the Moog problem solvers joint, so that poor design seems to be fixed. Replaced my ball joints for the 3rd time in March and the noise is still there. I can lift the wheel, push on the tire and see play between the joint and the LCA. Took it apart and the ball joint itself is tight; I suspect that during an earlier replacement the pinch joint wasn't tightened correctly and the hole in the knuckle is out of round, allowing wobble. Rather than epoxying it in place, I'm getting ready to buy a new knuckle and ball joint, so here's the question:
install and torque the pinch joint with Anti-seize, other lube or leave it dry?

Given the exquisite design of the HHR front suspension I suspect at some point it will need to be replaced again, and I don't want to have to keep getting bigger hammers. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Are you absolutely positive it is not the hubs?

 

For ball joints I’ve switched over to Delphi TC 5580, you will need 6 M10 1.50 /45 bolts and flange nuts.
install the stub dry and properly torque the pinch bolts.

 

I am not sure it's not the hub, but I see the movement between the knuckle and the LCA. Now, a few years back due to multiple DTCs being thrown for the wheel sensor, I bought a new hub/bearing, but I didn't use it. I found the harness was compromised, replaced it and DTCs went away, so it's my intention to use the new hub when I replace the knuckle.

 

Torque spec for Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle:
First pass 37 lb.ft. then back off 3/4 turn
Second pass 37 lb.ft. + 30 degrees.

LocTite is not specified, use if you want to.

Ball Joint to control arm
50 lb.ft.

Your profile says this is an LS. If that is incorrect and you have an SS, be advised that virtually ALL vendors (including GM) think that all HHRs use the same ball joint. The SS uses one with a larger stud. That results in trying to overtighten the bolt and malforming the knuckle and it is still loose. The only way we have found to get the correct ball joint is to buy a complete LCA from GM.

 

You don't want to use thread locker on those nuts.

 

I was trying to replace my ball joints and purchased 2 of these from Amazon:
My HHR is a 2008 LT. Do you think they are right? I have aluminum control arms.

Also, I was thinking of getting a punch because I was having trouble getting the ball joints out, even with the bolt heads ground off.

Thanks.

 

Drill out the rivets, then punch out the what is left of the shank of the rivet. Be careful not to drill into the aluminum arm.