Brake pedal goes to the floor
Brake pedal goes to the floor
Hello, I gave my 2009 LS HHR to my son to commute to college. I've done control arms, struts, pads, etc. His car has ABS and traction control lights on. A friend mechanic of his diagnosed it as the ABS pump, which would not run from the scanner. My son's girlfriend got into a horrific accident while sitting at a red light, she was hit and totaled her car and everyone inside had to be cut out and go to the hospital. She lost a few days of memory. Anyway they bought a 2008 HHR for her she noticed brakes were squishy. I got in it and the pedal went to the floor. I assumed a master cylinder ordered a new AC master and installed. We blead the brakes the old fashion way. Nice hard pedal with engine off. Start the engine and they go to the floor as before. So I go check my son's car and they also go to the floor. We know his car needs work. They both drive and stop good but you can press pedal to the floor? No leaks as the cars would be out of fluid by now. Amazing what kids think is normal. At least I don't think a pedal going to the floor is normal. Any ideas?
Old decrepit hydraulic brake flex hoses, they get mushy and can cause the foot brake to the floor issue, there are two up front and two in the back.
have you inspected the rear brakes? Are they worn out? Adjusted correctly? Most people don’t adjust the rear drums, they take a few clicks of the adjuster wheel every oil change.
have you inspected the rear brakes? Are they worn out? Adjusted correctly? Most people don’t adjust the rear drums, they take a few clicks of the adjuster wheel every oil change.
A test of the brake booster is: key off, pump the pedal untill it is hard, keep foot on pedal turn engine on. If pedal goes to floor the booster is good.
Has anyone considered adjusting the rear brakes? The front disc brakes do about 80-90% of the stopping but the rear brakes provide the pedal "feel"; if the rear brakes are not adjusted the car will stop, the front pads will wear out quickly and the pedal will be soft.
Has anyone considered adjusting the rear brakes? The front disc brakes do about 80-90% of the stopping but the rear brakes provide the pedal "feel"; if the rear brakes are not adjusted the car will stop, the front pads will wear out quickly and the pedal will be soft.
I have not inspected rear brakes personally. The 2008 just passed inspection last month. We pull the emergency/parking brake regularly. I know all rubber hoses on the 2009 are original I've owned that one since 18kmiles about 118 now. . Are you saying old rubber lines could actually be why the pedal is going to the floor? Could I actually see a bulge or feel it or is it a known problem? That would be great to replace those and re bleed the brakes if that is it. Do these cars need the brakes blead with a scanner to activate ABS?
DB- I will try that exact test. Currently you can step on brake with engine off and they feel normal and do not go to the floor. If engine is running you can press them to the floor. This is all in Park sitting in garage.
Thanks for any and all help given.
DB- I will try that exact test. Currently you can step on brake with engine off and they feel normal and do not go to the floor. If engine is running you can press them to the floor. This is all in Park sitting in garage.
Thanks for any and all help given.
The flex hoses bulging is an age old consequence of flexible rubber lines, I would look at them for bulges, cracking and leakage . The brakes are supposed to be bleed with a scan tool pumping the abs system
In VA they pull the drum and make sure the shoes exist. Pulling the parking brake does not adjust drum brakes. If the handle pulls up more than 3 clicks the shoes are not adjusted properly.
The sel adjusters don't work reliably because the rear of the car is too light to activate the lever, even when I back down a hill and slam the pedal. They are supposed to adjust every time the brakes are applied when the car is moving in reverse. That worked on 1963 Buicks, not so well on front drive light cars.
The sel adjusters don't work reliably because the rear of the car is too light to activate the lever, even when I back down a hill and slam the pedal. They are supposed to adjust every time the brakes are applied when the car is moving in reverse. That worked on 1963 Buicks, not so well on front drive light cars.
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/hhr-...der-abs-63392/
I’m aware the thread pertains to an SS , which has 4 wheel disc brakes, but it also has ABS , so read thru and see that a full brake bleed does require a Tech II scan tool to get the air out !
I’m aware the thread pertains to an SS , which has 4 wheel disc brakes, but it also has ABS , so read thru and see that a full brake bleed does require a Tech II scan tool to get the air out !
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