Kookie

Need some help with suggestions on how to get the lower control arm bushing / main frame bolt OUT. I think the bolt is rusted into the metal sleeve of the bushing. The bolt is backed out of the threaded part of the body frame. (I can feel it spin on the bottom of the threads.) That bushing sleeve spins with the bolt. Tried getting vise grips on the sleeve to hold it but it still spins. Can’t get a real good grip on it. Tried heat and penetrating oil and even an overnight soak. Tried a pickle fork between the head of the bolt and frame. The bolt won’t budge out. The only thing I can think to do is cut the bolt, but I would have to cut at the top and bottom of that sleeve with a hacksaw blade that will take a month of Sundays. Also thought to stick weld some tits on that sleeve to get some grip. IDK, I’m very frustrated and could use some suggestions.



That bushing was shot on the left side. I could move the whole arm with my hands. Replaced the right side a year and a half ago. Had to replace that one too. It was already tearing the rubber in that bushing but mainly replaced it because of an already worn ball joint. Left side, the problem side, is original 2006. I’ll tell ya’, really poor design. Reminds me of my Maverick from my youth.

whopper

Great picture - that really helps clarify the situation.

I'd guess you are right - the bushing is fused/rusted to the bolt. If penetrating oil doesn't do the job, nor the pickle fork with a LOT of pounding, about all I can suggest is heat.

But with the bushing still in place, that can be pretty tricky with the possibility of a fire. You say you used heat on it - but that is probably the only thing that will work. Myself, I'd hit it with a propane or MAPP gas torch (my preference as they are HOT), right on the bushing itself with the control arm raised up at the front to give a bit more clearance for the flame. the Mapp gas torch and the pickle fork should work. You might have to really pound on the end of the pickle fork to get it broken loose.

However, I'd definitely raise the vehicle a bit more for additional clearance to the ground, and have a hose ready in case the bushing catches fire.

oh oh - just tried to find some info for you on mapp gas torches, and it seems that Mapp gas has been discontinued and replaced with mapp-Pro which is only just slightly hotter than propane, and is apparently VERY expensive. So you are likely stuck with using a regular propane torch. However, even that might work if you heat the bushing up enough (but of course the bushing fire is a possibility).

Last ditch effort: use a cutting wheel on the lower control arm and cut it off the bolt/bushing, and replace the whole control arm (not super expensive, and already has the bushing and ball joint pre-installed). That will at least give you better access to the bushing and the bolt itself.

whopper

another idea - dremel tool with a small cutting wheel on it and cut into the exposed part of the bushing - then prying open the slit you cut, with a screwdriver. You will likely have to replace the bolt in the end though - so keep that in mind. GM dealers probably have them in stock(?????).

Kookie

Yes, I have someone picking up the bolt for me as we speak (type). I was afraid you'd come the the same conclusions. A two hour job is turning to a nightmare. Yes, its been on fire several times while heating. Fire extinguisher handy. I kind of want to save the control arm, but worse comes to worse I suppose I'll sacrifice it. I'd love to throw the whole thing through the window at GM HQ.

whopper

Using heat - that thing would have to be REAL hot (red or just sub-red I would think) the way it's stuck on there.

I love my dremel tool - and that would be my next move I think if it was mine.

Keep us posted on the resolution if you can. Best of luck.

Grizzly old man

Wow, I just looked on eBay at new lower control arms, they range anywhere from around $60 to over $200 for just one. At Autozone the are $132, at Napa they are 150 and some change.

When I decided to replace mine I went to the U pull a part place in the quad cities and got a pair of them for $30.00. I already had the new bushings on hand but the ones from the junker looked like new once I got them off.

My plan was to replace the bushings on the replacements then install them. Once I got home again I removed the originals and they too looked just fine to me. The ball joints had no more play in them than the new ones I bought so I just put them back on.

I compared both sets and was going to just put the new bushings in the worst looking pair but decided they were just fine and not in need of replacement parts so it they just lay in the bottom of my tool box waiting for me to get around to actually needing to do the job.

If this were me I would probably use the air 1/4” air powered angled die grinder and a 1/4”carbide burr to remove the bushing from the bolt, but then again I have these tools on hand. A Dremel tool with even the smallest useful cutoff wheel looks to me like it would still be to big to maneuver in the space you have.

The Dremel carbide cutters I've used don't seem to last very long for me so if you have a Dremel tool and decide to use a carbide cutter you might want to get several.

Given enough time a narrow file might do the job for you. A small 1/4" or maybe even a 1/2" cold chisel might work and be a little faster.

07azhhr

I suspect that you actually do not have the bolt fully unthreaded yet. When you get close to the end you can rock it around a bit which makes it seem like it is fully unthreaded. Also I believe our cars use a captive nut block on the top side which will have a tiny bit of room to move around inside its enclosure.

Try using the pickle fork to put some pressure on the bolt while you turn it more.

bpb355

I just replaced my control arm bushings with some aftermarket ones, while doing some research it seems this is a common, but PIA problem. Look over on the some of the cobalt forums and you'll see some suggestions. Most people seem to go with this one:


Here is how to deal with it.IF the trailing control arm bolt takes huge force to break loose ( IE AIR IMPACT WONT MOVE IT. 3 FT EXTENSION PIPE BREAKS MOVES IT BUT NOT EASILY? STOP!!!

Remove the cradle; it can hang on the upper engine mounts. remove the plastic splash shields, the ball joint cross pins to the knuckle and the sway bar end links; the lower front engine mount cross bolt and the three rear cradle mount bolts, the steering rack bolts ( lock the steering wheel in place) and then undo all the cradle bolts, dropping the cradle.


you will be left with the control arms in place and you can now deal with removing the seized cab. Heat and a hammer on the end of the cradle bolt and it will now ( with a struggle) come out, and happily the captive nut will be undamaged. Assemble with lots of anti seize.
this is a new arm with spherical trailing and composite /stainless leading bushings. Older cars the leading bushing will be damaged. The ball joint outlives the inner joints by a bunch on alloy control arm cars. (SS and 2.4 /GT G5).

Don't know how tough a job it will be to drop the cradle and put it back, but if you are stuck its a possible solution. Good Luck.

firemangeorge

I would try the pickle fork again. Just be sure you have the correct size and that the pickle fork is not "bottoming out". Then beat the living snot out of it.

I recently did some front end work on my old Dodge. My pickle fork bottomed out on the ball joints I was trying to pop loose. Didn't realize it at first. Luckily I was able to give it a few helping blows from the side.

Other than that, I would try to figure out a way to get it with a sawzall or other cutting tool.

donbrew

They left out the totally unimportant steps of buying/renting a motor support and then installing it. I guess if you don't mind an engine and transmission on your garage floor it's fine.