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Caliper piston dust boot question

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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #1  
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Caliper piston dust boot question

Lat time I changed my front pads I used a large C-clamp to compress the caliper piston and the dust boots ballooned out. I had a heck of a time getting them back flush with the compressed piston. I read the procedure to fix this is to "burb" the boots with a small screwdriver to let the air out. Does this work with the HHR? Anyone else have this issue? Also, if this procedure is used, will any brake fluid leak out or should it be dry behind the boot?
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 03:24 PM
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Has the caliper been sticking before you worked on it? Have you opened the master cylinder reservoir? I have NEVER had this happen. Ever. It sounds like the fluid isn't going back down the line when you compress it and its going out the path with least resistance-the piston seal.

Crack the bleeder open and see if it helps. Never puncture a dust boot. Maybe the piston twisted a little bit.
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Both sides ballooned, the left more than the right. When I say ballooned I mean a couple areas of the boot did not go flat as I compressed the piston. The whole boot did not balloon. I opened the fluid resevoir, placed an old pad against the piston and slowly tightened the c-clamp while watching to make sure the resevoir did not over flow. Brake fluid level rose significantly in the resevoir. I used a popcicle stick to work the raised areas of the boot back to flush. I did get a small brake fluid seepage on the right boot when I must have popped the seat seal. Both boots were brought back in line with the compressed boot and I had not leaks and the brakes were fine for 10k miles. I'm getting a faint wheel pulse on braking now and having done much research I suspect some pad transfer to the rotor has occurred. I picked up some garnet sand paper and am preparing to sand the rotors per reccomendations I'm reading on line.
I've never had the "balloon" issue on brake jobs I've done on other cars but an internet search turned up other such complaints, tho none I found on HHR's. One guy said he called and spoke with a tech at a dealership who said he just pokes it with a pin to equalize the pressure. I don't think I would do that but burping the boot seat seems logical if this happens again. Just looking for some feedback.
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 04:47 PM
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I believe I have read that the calipers are the screw in type....not sure if this is the SS or all
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 06:29 PM
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A) you do not need to open the reservoir or the bleeder when compressing the piston.
B) if the dust boot did not just compress back with the piston, and you see ANY brake fluid you got a leak! new calipers NOW! do not drive on my highway!
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by davidjb
I believe I have read that the calipers are the screw in type....not sure if this is the SS or all
The REARS should be screw type... for the parking brake worm gear.
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by nacademus
Has the caliper been sticking before you worked on it? Have you opened the master cylinder reservoir? I have NEVER had this happen. Ever. It sounds like the fluid isn't going back down the line when you compress it and its going out the path with least resistance-the piston seal.

Crack the bleeder open and see if it helps. Never puncture a dust boot. Maybe the piston twisted a little bit.

I don't know how strapped you are for cash, but a rebuild kit off of Rock Auto is $17.

I would prefer rebuilding it, however, front calipers range from $50 and up-loaded, you're looking at double that.

You already have pads. Just rebuild it or use an unloaded caliper.
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by nacademus
I don't know how strapped you are for cash, but a rebuild kit off of Rock Auto is $17.

I would prefer rebuilding it, however, front calipers range from $50 and up-loaded, you're looking at double that.

You already have pads. Just rebuild it or use an unloaded caliper.
The time trade off is pretty large tho, I vote buy a rebuilt caliper (or 2 preferably). If you got a couple of hours and the correct tools rebuild yourself, if you've never done it before plan on 2 hours each.
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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Note on todays cars with Antilock brakes it is recomended to open the bleeders when pushing the calipers in.

If you don't there is a risk of messing up the Antilock pump. It is not common but it can happen.

You just can't do brakes like you used to anymore as things have changed in some areas.

Yes only the SS has screw in adjusters on the rear for the E brake. Non of the other HHR's have this since they do not have rear disc.

If you have a pulse issue and the you think it is pad material the question is did you seat them or bed in the pads when you put them on? If you did not bed them in and cheaper pads will leave material on the rotors uneven and it will create the pulse.

People buy Ceramic and metallic pads but they are all not the same. Many may say Ceramic but how much ceramic material is really in the bonding agent. There are no standards and the cheaper the cost of the pad the cheaper they are made in most cases. You get what you pay for most times.
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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I thought he had an SS at first-regarding the spin in piston on the rear. My bad.



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