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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #11  
panelmoxie's Avatar
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Joined: 01-14-2011
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From: north ga
next time i will do all of the aboce. should not be long since i go so many miles and live in the mountains.
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #12  
jay loukakis's Avatar
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Joined: 10-21-2008
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From: hemet, calif.
You can buy from Summitt raceing.
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 11:01 PM
  #13  
GDZHHR's Avatar
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From: Maryland Heights, MO
Originally Posted by jay loukakis
You can buy from Summitt raceing.
got mine on amazon, great price and on my doorstep the next day
Old Sep 23, 2011 | 10:50 PM
  #14  
GDZHHR's Avatar
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From: Maryland Heights, MO
I gotta tell ya, these things are great! I can really tell the difference is stopping power.
Old Sep 23, 2011 | 10:54 PM
  #15  
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From: SE USA
Looks like a nice set-up..

Adding stainless braided brake hoses really help also. Firmer pedal...
Old Sep 24, 2011 | 12:05 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by sleeper
Looks like a nice set-up..

Adding stainless braided brake hoses really help also. Firmer pedal...
something to consider when I ever get around to a rear disc conversion
Old Oct 3, 2011 | 05:08 AM
  #17  
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Joined: 06-20-2011
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From: Savanna Illinois
In my youth I was the owner of a 1969 Mustang with a 428 Super Cobra V8 engine. There was 4 on the floor and holes bored for more.

It was a very scary fast vehicle and I spent a small fortune trying to make it go faster. I did all manner of carburetor modifications and added a set of headers. I swapped the stock steel wheels for supposedly lighter aluminum wheels.

It turned out that Keystone Classics were only a few grams lighter than the stock Ford GT rims in a comparable wheel size. And since I went from 14” to 15” and swung a larger tire the whole thing weighed more than if I had just stayed with the original wheels and Joey Chitwood super 60’s in the back and super 70’s in the front.

And I put a set of the nice sexy drilled disk brake rotors on the front of the buggy.

The idea of drilling them and having those gofast lines embossed in them is that the disk will cool faster than a solid disk.

I have my doubts. They may have cooled down faster due to there being less mass but they also heated up much faster and would fade that much faster.

Brake shoes and pads have come a long way since the mid to late ’70’s when I was Joey Gearhead running around the tracks trying to set the world land speed record, a quarter mile at a time, but not really that much.

The parts pictured are real pretty but I can only wonder if they are worth the extra expense.
Old Oct 3, 2011 | 05:41 AM
  #18  
hyperv6's Avatar
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Joined: 07-05-2008
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From: Akron Ohio
Originally Posted by Grizzly old man
In my youth I was the owner of a 1969 Mustang with a 428 Super Cobra V8 engine. There was 4 on the floor and holes bored for more.

It was a very scary fast vehicle and I spent a small fortune trying to make it go faster. I did all manner of carburetor modifications and added a set of headers. I swapped the stock steel wheels for supposedly lighter aluminum wheels.

It turned out that Keystone Classics were only a few grams lighter than the stock Ford GT rims in a comparable wheel size. And since I went from 14” to 15” and swung a larger tire the whole thing weighed more than if I had just stayed with the original wheels and Joey Chitwood super 60’s in the back and super 70’s in the front.

And I put a set of the nice sexy drilled disk brake rotors on the front of the buggy.

The idea of drilling them and having those gofast lines embossed in them is that the disk will cool faster than a solid disk.

I have my doubts. They may have cooled down faster due to there being less mass but they also heated up much faster and would fade that much faster.

Brake shoes and pads have come a long way since the mid to late ’70’s when I was Joey Gearhead running around the tracks trying to set the world land speed record, a quarter mile at a time, but not really that much.

The parts pictured are real pretty but I can only wonder if they are worth the extra expense.
You are correct on the holes. They do no cool and a solid rotor has more heat sink to absorbe the heat out of the pads. His improvment is in the pad material and its ability to transfer heat.

The key to ceramic pads is how much ceramic is in them. Too many call them selves ceramic but have very little in them. There is no standard in how much there is. Cost often is a good indicator but not always.

The key to good brakes is to get the heat out of the pads as this is what fades not the rotors. More metal more heat is absorbed. This is why most racing rotors are solid and thick.

In the past the holes were for out gassing old orgainc pads and for less unsprung weight. Niether apply anymore and it is today just for looks.
Old Oct 3, 2011 | 05:43 AM
  #19  
hyperv6's Avatar
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From: Akron Ohio
Originally Posted by jay loukakis
You can buy from Summitt raceing.
Yep they will beat anyones price. If they are not instock ask for a dropship it will speed it up and cost no more.

As for the brake lines the steel braided will help on front disc but you feel bigger gain on 4 wheel disc. Most people do not realize how much the hoses give in a brake system will they put them on. It really adds a much more solid pedal.
Old Oct 3, 2011 | 07:20 AM
  #20  
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Joined: 01-24-2008
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From: USA
Originally Posted by hyperv6
I am going to the Reds next time just for the less dust but I will pass on the rotors.
I'm suprised you passed on the rotors. Care to explain?



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