Cooked HHR SS Brakes?
Cooked HHR SS Brakes?
After going to the track (the 1/4, not the road course) last night, I had to move the SS this morning to let someone else out of the driveway. When I came back into the driveway and tried to stop, I heard a creaking sound when I hit my brakes and almost ran into the trailer in front of me. I pumped the brakes, and each time it made a nasty creaking sound and went almost to the floor until normal brake feel finally came back.
Then tonight after coming home from a meet, I decided to practice my shifting. I did several launches by myself and got pretty hard on my brakes several times, but I guess I didn't realize I was abusing them so. When I got home I smelled that brake smell and when I looked at the front rotors, they were glowing like Gran Turismo!
My theory now is that I boiled my brake fluid last night because I made several consecutive runs, and I may have done it again tonight. Is there anything I can do? Maybe better fluid? I know now that with my driving style I NEED (not WANT) to get a BBK from Todd, but is there an interim solution?
Then tonight after coming home from a meet, I decided to practice my shifting. I did several launches by myself and got pretty hard on my brakes several times, but I guess I didn't realize I was abusing them so. When I got home I smelled that brake smell and when I looked at the front rotors, they were glowing like Gran Turismo!
My theory now is that I boiled my brake fluid last night because I made several consecutive runs, and I may have done it again tonight. Is there anything I can do? Maybe better fluid? I know now that with my driving style I NEED (not WANT) to get a BBK from Todd, but is there an interim solution?
Sounds as if you may have in fact boiled the fluid. At least on the second time around with those glowing rotors. My guess is that the stock calipers are in need of some help- probably some new pads, greasing of the slide pins or guides and a good fluid flush. I'd wager they are hanging up some and creating some drag which is elevating temps. (and slowing down the drag times also)
The vehicle should never be parked with excessive brake temperatures. This includes those fit with a true BBK as well. The issue is heat soak or the break down of pad materials upon the rotor surface in one spot. That in essence cooks the pads to the rotors in one place which leads to pulsation issues and the classic "warped rotor" syndrome.
While there is no real need for racing fluid for what you do, fresher, low time fluid of DOT3 or DOT4 is adequate for street/drag use. Only those cars seeing open track day use will really benefit (for a short time) with the use of DOT5.1 fluid. Never use DOT5 fluid as it is a silicone based fluid and great for show bikes and such but will compress and never produce a firm pedal. Also once introduced to the system it will be hell to get out of there without lots of conventional glycol based fluids.
The vehicle should never be parked with excessive brake temperatures. This includes those fit with a true BBK as well. The issue is heat soak or the break down of pad materials upon the rotor surface in one spot. That in essence cooks the pads to the rotors in one place which leads to pulsation issues and the classic "warped rotor" syndrome.
While there is no real need for racing fluid for what you do, fresher, low time fluid of DOT3 or DOT4 is adequate for street/drag use. Only those cars seeing open track day use will really benefit (for a short time) with the use of DOT5.1 fluid. Never use DOT5 fluid as it is a silicone based fluid and great for show bikes and such but will compress and never produce a firm pedal. Also once introduced to the system it will be hell to get out of there without lots of conventional glycol based fluids.
Sounds as if you may have in fact boiled the fluid. At least on the second time around with those glowing rotors. My guess is that the stock calipers are in need of some help- probably some new pads, greasing of the slide pins or guides and a good fluid flush. I'd wager they are hanging up some and creating some drag which is elevating temps. (and slowing down the drag times also)
The vehicle should never be parked with excessive brake temperatures. This includes those fit with a true BBK as well. The issue is heat soak or the break down of pad materials upon the rotor surface in one spot. That in essence cooks the pads to the rotors in one place which leads to pulsation issues and the classic "warped rotor" syndrome.
While there is no real need for racing fluid for what you do, fresher, low time fluid of DOT3 or DOT4 is adequate for street/drag use. Only those cars seeing open track day use will really benefit (for a short time) with the use of DOT5.1 fluid. Never use DOT5 fluid as it is a silicone based fluid and great for show bikes and such but will compress and never produce a firm pedal. Also once introduced to the system it will be hell to get out of there without lots of conventional glycol based fluids.
The vehicle should never be parked with excessive brake temperatures. This includes those fit with a true BBK as well. The issue is heat soak or the break down of pad materials upon the rotor surface in one spot. That in essence cooks the pads to the rotors in one place which leads to pulsation issues and the classic "warped rotor" syndrome.
While there is no real need for racing fluid for what you do, fresher, low time fluid of DOT3 or DOT4 is adequate for street/drag use. Only those cars seeing open track day use will really benefit (for a short time) with the use of DOT5.1 fluid. Never use DOT5 fluid as it is a silicone based fluid and great for show bikes and such but will compress and never produce a firm pedal. Also once introduced to the system it will be hell to get out of there without lots of conventional glycol based fluids.
I will make sure to drive it around for a while to cool off next time.
I've got one on order.
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