ESC Active message after rack replacement
ESC Active message after rack replacement
Replaced my steering rack this weekend due to binding and slack. Steers fine now (no longer binding)...but when I went on a test drive, I get a "ESC Active" message and you can hear/feel the system pulse the passenger side front brake. After a few seconds, the error goes away. It will do this if I swerve (as if avoiding a pothole) or if I get on the brakes with any agression. There are no wires, plugs, or anything electrical involved in the swap. Just removed the wheels to do the job.
To give specific details, I did NOT completely rotate the steering wheel during swap, but did have to turn it slightly to line up the steering shaft (ie: from 12:00 position to 9:00 or 3:00....don't recall which actual direction it needed)
And because there was nothing electrical involved, I did not disconnect the battery.
I don't believe there is anything wrong with the connection at the front wheel hubs or the ABS sensors because I don't have a light nor warning about that at all....although I have checked the connectors.
Thank you in advance, and YES I did search before I posted this. I didn't find anything that matched this. The closest I found was about replacing the column or the intermediate shaft.
To give specific details, I did NOT completely rotate the steering wheel during swap, but did have to turn it slightly to line up the steering shaft (ie: from 12:00 position to 9:00 or 3:00....don't recall which actual direction it needed)
And because there was nothing electrical involved, I did not disconnect the battery.
I don't believe there is anything wrong with the connection at the front wheel hubs or the ABS sensors because I don't have a light nor warning about that at all....although I have checked the connectors.
Thank you in advance, and YES I did search before I posted this. I didn't find anything that matched this. The closest I found was about replacing the column or the intermediate shaft.
As a temporary work around....is there a fuse that can be pulled to disable the system? I know if I unplug one of my front hubs, the system will stay offline, but a fuse would take less effort until I can find time to leave it at a shop.
So, I disconnected the battery overnight. Next day, reconnected and test drove. No dice. Still throws the warning when I swerve or get on the brake pedal aggressively. So here is what I tried and the results....
1) Disconnected battery overnight. (mentioned above) **no change**
2) Pulled 10a ABS fuse **problem stopped on test drive but I had BRAKE, ABS, and TractionControl icons light up**. Put fuse back. Lights returned to normal.
3) Pulled the 20a ABS fuse **exact same result as attempt #2**. Put fuse back. Lights returned to normal.
4) Pulled the 40a ABS mega-fuse **same result as 2 & 3, but also gave multiple errors across the DIC screen**. Put fuse back and used scanner to clear the actual ABS code that showed up in this step.
5) Test drove again to make sure ABS error was going to stay off. Oddly enough, ESC Active warning not coming on now....and I tried many times to make it happen.
Not sure if that 40a ABS fuse was the key, but surely pulling the battery cable off for 12+ hours would have accomplished the same thing.
I can't help but wonder if making it actually throwing a code, then resetting it had more to do with it than anything.
Not sure when this started but during all of this testing, I have noticed that my T/C button on the dash will not do anything by pushing...nor holding it.
1) Disconnected battery overnight. (mentioned above) **no change**
2) Pulled 10a ABS fuse **problem stopped on test drive but I had BRAKE, ABS, and TractionControl icons light up**. Put fuse back. Lights returned to normal.
3) Pulled the 20a ABS fuse **exact same result as attempt #2**. Put fuse back. Lights returned to normal.
4) Pulled the 40a ABS mega-fuse **same result as 2 & 3, but also gave multiple errors across the DIC screen**. Put fuse back and used scanner to clear the actual ABS code that showed up in this step.
5) Test drove again to make sure ABS error was going to stay off. Oddly enough, ESC Active warning not coming on now....and I tried many times to make it happen.
Not sure if that 40a ABS fuse was the key, but surely pulling the battery cable off for 12+ hours would have accomplished the same thing.
I can't help but wonder if making it actually throwing a code, then resetting it had more to do with it than anything.
Not sure when this started but during all of this testing, I have noticed that my T/C button on the dash will not do anything by pushing...nor holding it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



