Front & Rear Suspension Refresh - Parts List?
#12
Well, I went through and replaced all of the above items, and things were much better for a week (outside of the front end being horrifically out of alignment, which I expected.
Had the front end aligned, and the second day after doing so, I started hearing a new noise whenever I turned the steering wheel. The sound is hard to describe. I'd probably describe it as if the springs are turning inside the strut towers and/or are overtorqued. Or maybe it sounds like dried rubber binding on something.
Either way, it's now driving me crazier than the clunking did before...lol. I've tried loosening and resetting the torque on the upper strut tower bolts, and have also attempted to lubricate the bushings and bearings in the top of the tower (in case the Monroe Quick-Struts I bought had been sitting on the shelf for a long time.
Neither had any effect.
Any other ideas?
Had the front end aligned, and the second day after doing so, I started hearing a new noise whenever I turned the steering wheel. The sound is hard to describe. I'd probably describe it as if the springs are turning inside the strut towers and/or are overtorqued. Or maybe it sounds like dried rubber binding on something.
Either way, it's now driving me crazier than the clunking did before...lol. I've tried loosening and resetting the torque on the upper strut tower bolts, and have also attempted to lubricate the bushings and bearings in the top of the tower (in case the Monroe Quick-Struts I bought had been sitting on the shelf for a long time.
Neither had any effect.
Any other ideas?
Last edited by Nodaclu; 12-15-2018 at 07:17 PM.
#14
Well, I've re-greased the sway bar bushings and end links, re-torqued the struts, and done just about everything else I can think of, and the sound is still there. It's very much a creaking sound, and I've isolated it to the lower right front of the car.
Based on process of elimination, the conclusion I've reached is that the shop that did the alignment trashed a bearing/bushing in the brand new right front lower control arm, which means I need to replace it...again.
Not happy about this, but not a whole lot I can do about it either unfortunately. I'll definitely have a different shop re-align it afterwards.
Based on process of elimination, the conclusion I've reached is that the shop that did the alignment trashed a bearing/bushing in the brand new right front lower control arm, which means I need to replace it...again.
Not happy about this, but not a whole lot I can do about it either unfortunately. I'll definitely have a different shop re-align it afterwards.
#15
The only adjustment on the HHR front alignment is the "toe". Adjustments are made via the tie rods. The alignment shop wouldn't have been doing anything with the control arms as they are mounted in a fixed, pivot position(no adjustment)
There is no caster or camber adjustment. Camber can only be changed with the addition of special camber bolts.
There is no caster or camber adjustment. Camber can only be changed with the addition of special camber bolts.
#17
Then I'm open to suggestions at this point.
Loud, creaking sound - passenger side. Happens mostly during low speed turning maneuvers. Doesn't happen when wheels are straight going over bumps for example. Everything was fine the week after I changed everything out. Got the car aligned a week later. The following day, the creaking started.
As mentioned above - struts bolts checked for tightness. Sway bar bushings re-greased. Sway bar links re-greased. Not sure where to turn from here.
Loud, creaking sound - passenger side. Happens mostly during low speed turning maneuvers. Doesn't happen when wheels are straight going over bumps for example. Everything was fine the week after I changed everything out. Got the car aligned a week later. The following day, the creaking started.
As mentioned above - struts bolts checked for tightness. Sway bar bushings re-greased. Sway bar links re-greased. Not sure where to turn from here.
#20
That is one of the many descriptions I've heard. That is my first thought. The endplay is only .015 inch, your human senses can't tell that fine.
If you still have the quick strut boxes look at the part number; There should be a double asterisk or other special character either next to it or below it. That denotes the new spring design; the original design had something going on with the springs binding or rubbing on something. That was when they ASSuMED that if they fit Cobalt they must fit HHR.
If you still have the quick strut boxes look at the part number; There should be a double asterisk or other special character either next to it or below it. That denotes the new spring design; the original design had something going on with the springs binding or rubbing on something. That was when they ASSuMED that if they fit Cobalt they must fit HHR.