LS Front Warped Rotors
LS Front Warped Rotors
I know that the brakes on the HHR base model were undersized. Ive read a ton of threads and posts talking about it. Most say to slow the heck down and you won't have that problem but I want to beat on it a bit without dumping $600 into a set of brembo brakes. Are there any stock diameter rotors that are less likely to warp or is it just a game we all have to play until we upgrade?
Or upgrade your LS brakes for the Non Brembo SS front rotors and keep your rear drums adjusted as Donbrew pointed out
Here’s an excellent how to....
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ard-hhr-42938/
Thanks Solman98
Here’s an excellent how to....
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ard-hhr-42938/
Thanks Solman98
I guess you just never read the threads on this forum!
Our advice has always been to be sure the rear drums are manually adjusted properly. I have NEVER seen a post advising "slow down".
Buying slotted or drilled rotors is a waste, unless you are doing for looks.
Mostly, the rotors are not warped. LCAs, bearings, struts are bigger offenders.
Our advice has always been to be sure the rear drums are manually adjusted properly. I have NEVER seen a post advising "slow down".
Buying slotted or drilled rotors is a waste, unless you are doing for looks.
Mostly, the rotors are not warped. LCAs, bearings, struts are bigger offenders.
I check my rear brake shoe adjustment, at my annual oil changes & service.
If your E-Brake is adjusted properly, you can tell if the rear brakes need an adjustment, by just counting the clicks it takes to hold the car on a slight slope in neutral.
For my ride 3-4 clicks & I know I'm still good.
My 2LT Panel came with non-Brembo SS front rotors, but same calipers, which has a bigger piston that the SS has.
If your E-Brake is adjusted properly, you can tell if the rear brakes need an adjustment, by just counting the clicks it takes to hold the car on a slight slope in neutral.
For my ride 3-4 clicks & I know I'm still good.
My 2LT Panel came with non-Brembo SS front rotors, but same calipers, which has a bigger piston that the SS has.
My brake shake at highway speeds turned out to be several things, the intermediate steering shaft, the steering rack input shaft bushings were worn and the upper engine mount was toast! Check the rear LCA bushings too!
Last edited by RJ_RS_SS_350; May 13, 2018 at 03:55 PM. Reason: typo
I guess you just never read the threads on this forum!
Our advice has always been to be sure the rear drums are manually adjusted properly. I have NEVER seen a post advising "slow down".
Buying slotted or drilled rotors is a waste, unless you are doing for looks.
Mostly, the rotors are not warped. LCAs, bearings, struts are bigger offenders.
Our advice has always been to be sure the rear drums are manually adjusted properly. I have NEVER seen a post advising "slow down".
Buying slotted or drilled rotors is a waste, unless you are doing for looks.
Mostly, the rotors are not warped. LCAs, bearings, struts are bigger offenders.
Back on topic:
Interesting info on the other hard parts being big offenders. I am curious if you could provide details on how those components cause rotors to warp. That is the solution to a vibration while braking. The G6 base was plagued with the issue as well. I am by no means saying the other parts are not common failure points as I know they are. Just wondering how they are contributing to the undersized braking system issues.
I am really not into making the thing look cool. I am just into improving the reliability and extending service intervals on things. I have motorcycles and racecars for the flash and dash. This is an anemic 4 ticker that will be used as a work transport and nothing more. I only work 3 days a week but work is 120 mi/day.
Tech Tip to avoid getting out tools and making manual adjustments to rear brakes:
Knowing how the "automatic" adjusters work in these cars, I am going to go out on a limb here and say that they aren't staying in adjustment because they are adjusted up with the parking brake. If one has an automatic transmission it is very likely that they would never use it. Thus causing the adjuster to not take up. A simple solution to that problem is to run the parking brake a few cycles a month. Chrysler cars were notorious for this as well.**
**The adjuster can get gummed up with dust but its fairly rare. Commonly this happens when a brake isn't adjusted for some time or when the adjusters aren't replaced/cleaned with the shoe R&R.
Or upgrade your LS brakes for the Non Brembo SS front rotors and keep your rear drums adjusted as Donbrew pointed out
Here’s an excellent how to....
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ard-hhr-42938/
Thanks Solman98
Here’s an excellent how to....
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ard-hhr-42938/
Thanks Solman98


