Silverfox

Hi Guys,

Even though I know you all consider replacing the shocks as an easy no brainer, I have run into an issue that needs clearification before I start.

I am going to do the Rear Spring Replacement ( Cobalt SS/SC ) and KYB Rear Shocks.

In doing some research here I discovered that there are 2 posts from very reliable sources that contradict each other on bolt torque.

#1 poste by 843de

If you have access to a torque wrench, the top bolts should be tightened to 92 foot pounds, and the bottom bolts should be tightened to 66 foot pounds.

If you don't have a torque wrench, get them tight, but not so tight that you risk stripping something.


#2. Whopper post

SUSPENSION - REAR (SS model)
-----------------------------------Metric ---------------English
Bracket to Body Bolts ----------90 N.m + 45° ----66 lb ft + 45°
Brake Hose Fittings ------------19 N.m ----------14 lb ft
Bushing Through Bolts ---------90 N.m + 60° -----66 lb ft + 60°
Shock Bolt Lower -------------125 N.m ----------92 lb ft
Shock Bolt Upper --------------90 N.m -----------66 lb ft
Wheel Bearing/
Hub Assembly Mounting Nuts ---45 N.m + 30° -----33 lb ft + 30°

This could be a problem ... Eh?

Silverfox________________

Oldblue

I always use a torque wrench, so 92 and 66.
I believe 843de simply put in the information for those who don’t have a torque wrench.
So, no I don’t think you will have a problem.
Just st in case you missed it, don’t forget the brakehose mount bolt!

Silverfox

Blue,

Think you might be reading my post wrong.

The torque settings are reversed .....

aradmahogany

Lower gets 92, top gets 66. Lower is bigger bolt.

Oldblue

Well here’s straight from my Chilton book

Silverfox

Thanks Steve,

That clears my mind.

Yes I will drop the brake hose bracket ..Thanks for the reminder.

Installing New Cobalt upper Jounce bumpers, Isolators, and Base plates as well.

Hoping I made the right Shock replacement choice. This is a 2LT FE3 suspension and I debated on Stock shocks or KYB's.
The difference in cost was not an issue.
Also considered SAC's from Rock Auto but am not quite sure of their performance characteristics for this application.

Silverfox

Oldblue

I fixed 843de ‘s post to avoid future confusion.


Ah, we will need before and after pictures!

I’ve had KYB’s in mine since I lowered it way back in 2010 or 11, I just replaced the rears at 190,000 miles on the shocks! No leaks just a little spongy and for the price I replaced them.