Sway bar end links
Sway bar end links
Is there any difference in using the longer vs shorter links I have a LS fe1 but plan to change out to fe5 springs and struts. Should I use the shorter fe1 links or go for the fe5 links. Thanks
I found that the longer links will touch the control arms and actually leave a dent in them, because the sway bar is rotated down effectively shortening the length of the sway bar end. I do not know if that is dangerous or not. I can not figure out how the length of the end might affect handling, it might, I just don't know. The longer ones are really for Cobalt, I think, they may have a different sway bar.
I don't think there is a difference. My experience is with an LT. The 12 inch links are wrong. The parts books all seem to think 12 inch for all Cobalts and HHRs, because they are the same "platform".
I would think that the lowering all happens above where the link attaches. It's the geometry of the bends and hooks of the sway bar that affect the link length. I just don't think the length matters performance wise, unless you only drive on ovals like NASCAR.
I would think that the lowering all happens above where the link attaches. It's the geometry of the bends and hooks of the sway bar that affect the link length. I just don't think the length matters performance wise, unless you only drive on ovals like NASCAR.
I just measured both links..LS vs SS..I too was under the impression there were 2 different lengths..guess what..both are 10".. no difference..dont know where it got started unless like he said, somehow cobalt #'s got mixed in...but what i did notice was the SS bar is not shaped the same..the bend at the lower a frame is shorter..it does not hang like the LS does..( both cars lowered about the same in front) even so..no need to change unless they are worn out...
Stock anyway. From my understanding, lowering kits really only affect the springs, I don't see how you could "lower" the suspension on this chassis.
Yeah I just changed my sway bar end links to the Moog 10". I had to go to harbor freight and buy a 4" cutting tool with disc which was under 20 bucks. There are different techniques of getting the stock links out, but cutting them is most effective. The new Moog links are both also 10", and have a bolt on the shaft making future link replacement much easier. Plus a grease fitting on the back making them last longer. The moog seems like a good brand, we'll see. As for the length 10" vs 12", I'd just stick with whatever you have stock, I heard if you go from 10" to 12", the links may come in contact with the control arm....


