thanks for all the replys expect the mod :lol: just kidding.... i will be trying different stuff soon.. or just keep returning to the carx and keep warrenty those china ones out :lol:

moosejunky99

The mod:D is a 35 year veteran courier in the D.C. area, about 90,000 miles a year.

Did you use your topic title in the search box? There are probably 20-30 threads with the identical title.

I was just pointing out that lots of people have the same problem and that you will get the same 10 pieces of advice that they got. 95% of the time it's the REAR brakes causing the problem.

With firemangeorge saying that, he is one to check profiles before commenting. He knew you didn't have the SS edition with disc rear brakes.

It still stands that you need to adjust the back drums regularly so the braking is even.

For what it's worth, I have had Ceramic brakes on my HHR now for just over a year, and the only wobble I have is from my 2 bent rims thanks to our conveniently placed Michigan Potholes. :roflol:

Make sure they are actually torquing the lug nuts between 100 and 120 foot pounds and not just ramming them on with an impact wrench.

I am convinced that this is what has contributed to mine not getting warped since I replaced them the last time.

I do my own work on my brakes because I have had shops screw them up to many times. I carry a 1/2” click torque wrench in each of my cars and have another in my tool box. I get them when Harbor Freight has them on sale for $12.99.

By having one with me all the time I can make sure the lugs are torqued even if I should have a flat out on the road somewhere. I rotate my tires with every oil change and make sure they are torqued then too so the tool was really worth the investment for me.

When I adjust my rear drum brakes I remove the drums and spray the drums and shoes with brake cleaner spray then a couple of adjuster clicks and ensure the hub surface is clean sme say its over kill but I figure I have the tire off to rotate them any how!
The front rotors I remove and clean every 6 months to avoid any scale between the hub and rotor!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pg318 View Post
My HHR lived its first six years in Buffalo, then near Chicago, and one thing i noticed when replacing the rotors was a thick layer of rust that had accumulated on the surface of the hub between it and the mounting face of the rotor - without cleaning all that off the new rotor wouldn't sit flat to the hub, and the initial runout would probably lead to warping later...
That is EXACTLY the reason that that is an emphasized step in rotor replacement. Where I live, I just inspect and wipe smooth. Most don't even do that.


I read every post on brake shudder, and don't remember seeing this comment.
This and failure to keep the rear adjusted are probably the best explanation(s).

that is why i still like hearing common complaints asked again. sometimes you see an answer that is either new, or wasn't as obvious before....

The specs call for 100 foot lbs - not up to 120. Gotta be careful not to over-torque them.

If one were to read several of the threads that are about rotors I just don't know how you could miss cleaning the corrosion off the hub. And it is in the service manual.

To state my point once again; use the search to at least see the huge number of like posts.

I bought an 06 LT2 and noticed the steering wheel pulsating about a week later. I ordered the cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic pads from Brakemotive and so far ( fingers crossed), it has been a dramatic upgrade. It also looks custom behind the wheels and stops on a dime.

Welcome Stevie6670