Very do-able

Just enough to wiggle cover out

Cleared as much as needed

Tied clove hitch to hood strut bowline base of plastic fuse box that would drop down on hood close. & lift on open (breaks needed)

 

Murph, did you catch the trans fluid after you cracked up the trans cover? Or did you drain the whole trans at the pan underneath?

 

I did this repair a few weeks ago, it was a bit of a pain in the butt. Once the cover is off the replacement of the solenoids was easy. Don't be like me and forget to buy ALL of the solenoids!!! I forgot the TCC solenoid, put it all back together, the car ran great for a few days then the check engine light came on, a scan revealed a P0714 Torque converter TCC error. I never had that code before. So this weekend I have to tear it all back apart again GGGRRRR!!

When you put the fuse box back together, make sure you tighten the 4 bolts past the "Pop!" noise you'll here. It feels like you're stripping the nut in the wiring connector but you aren't. After the pop continue rotating the bolt another 10-15 turns and they'll magically snug up. At first I stopped tightening thinking I was stripping the nut and my wiring blocks were completely connecting the fuses and I couldn't start the car and had all sorts of electrical problem before I figured this out. I don't know why GM does stupid crap like this.

 

It wasn’t a GM design! The parts vendor sold the two piece fuse boxes, many other brands have similar designs and problems with their fuse boxes.

 

Drained & new filter plastic trash can lid was there to catch small residual drops
lifted fuse box at an angle wasn't necessary to break it apart just gave it a firm press after bolted back in

 

Tied to strut

Tilted enough for new mounts too

 

Reply-

3 years later and I came across the same issue on my 2007 Chevrolet HHR 2.4L LT Panel, after over a week of researching and no answers I finally came across your post explaining the fuze box bolts, I knew I could finally rest assured. Until of course a new problem took place, which happened to be a crank but no start issue (Missing starter relay), I replaced the relay and guess what..now the car starts and runs but..when I move the shifter into D/R nothing happens, as if it stays in Neutral…any ideas??

 

Is the park/neutral switch moving when you move the shifter?

 

What’s the voltage at the battery?

 

How do I get the fuse box out of my way? I took all the bracket bolts out