2011 HHR LT automatic.

I read many threads. I replaced the shift solenoids and was getting a no crank issue, did all sorts of checking of fuses, relays, continuity, etc. I then came across the thread for the fuse box bolts thought hah I got it figured out tightened them down all the way and still nothing. The neutral switch was working fine before I took it apart could removing it killed it? I have tried putting the car in reverse and rotating it and I'm getting no reverse lights in any position. Please any ideas.

 

May have bumped the switch out of alignment or not plugged in right.
Fuse #25 on BCM and fuse #41 & #43 & #5 on under hood. relay #51 & #34 under hood.

Did you remove the under hood fuse box?

 

How would I get it back into alignment I loosened the bolts and adjusted left and right but wasn't getting anything.

 

Yes I removed the fuse box. At first I thought my issue was the tightness of the bolts after reading other threads tightened them all down to 90 inch lbs still had a long way to go from where I had them.
Fuses:
5 - 12v
41,43 less than 1v
25 on bcm also less than 1v
All fuses are good
Relays pass bench testing

 

Have a read and check the photos in this thread

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...-switch-66893/

 

I have. I also read through this thread https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/driv...d-61313/page5/
I don't have an alignment tool specified in the manual so I was going to used the method steve talked about where you loosen the bolts and use the reverse lights. Using my computer it's showing high/high/high/high on the TR Switch A/B/C/P in all positions so I guess it's time to replace the switch and see what I get.

 

This from fastsuv thread,

I did not use an alignment tool, I could see the original position of the bolts by the mark they left in the slots on the switch. Otherwise, I read a good idea for PNP alignment on a Volvo forum. Put the car in reverse and rotate the PNP switch in both directions until the backup lights go out. Then put the switch halfway between the two light-out spots. Bolts are all pretty easy to access. Nothing is particularly hard or too tricky, just long and tedious to remove and reinstall everything.

This work for him, maybe try again?

 

Yeah that's what I've tried with no luck. I'm on the way to pickup a new one if that doesn't work then I'm stumped.

 

Let us know

 

My money is on the bolts need to be tightened more, until all of the contacts click into place. Especially the bolts near the relays.