When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
However, I got the stomach bug that had been through 5 other family members the past week.
I was still able to get the 4 solenoids replaced in the valve body. It took all of a few minutes.
The only part left to replace is the large pressure switch, which has to be unbolted. Then it's reassembly time.
It hasn't leaked, but I am thinking I should replace the axle seal since the cover is off.
Also, the service manual recommends erasing the Transmission Adaptive Parameters that it has learned so it can relearn the new parts. This has to be done using the scan tool I don't have so I may have to take it somewhere after I am finished.
Steve
If your loose (you know what I mean) do to the flu, eat scrambled eggs and rice, it will bind you up. Hope you are starting to feel better.
Richie
Yes, that's the main symptom I am having. It has improved quite a bit thankfully.
Here is a picture showing what's what concerning the electrical parts:
The 2-3 Shift Solenoid that I removed showed about 4 ohms instead of the required range of 19-31 ohms. This means it was drawing at least 5 times the normal current, which resulted in the plastic surrounding the coil melting.
Glad , I didn’t come over to your house , Steve.
We would have that job done , but I don’t have much resistance to the sickly stomach stuff!
great info in the “binders” Cat man
Yesterday I was close to feeling normal, so I went back to reassembly.
This is what I did:
1) Put side cover back on trans.
2) Raised trans until I bolted the side mount back on. Note the side mount actually attaches to the cover, not the trans body.
3) Raised the subframe until the front and rear trans mounts lined up and bolted them back on. While raising subframe you must align and attach steering shaft, and make sure radiator locating pegs go into rubber grommets in subframe.
4) Dropped the trans bottom pan to change the filter. A messy job because pan shape makes it larger than any drain pan I had. I used donbrews idea(in an old trans fluid thread) about using a mortar mixing pan, which I had).
5) Put in new filter, gasket, and reattached pan. The fluid was somewhat dark, but not burnt. There were no particles in the pan. There was only a bit of fine powder on the magnet. This trans has 200K miles on it. I was skeptical of GM's recommendation to not change the fluid regularly (except for extreme conditions) but this seems to vindicate them.
This weekend I hope to finish assembly and fill the trans. I also took more pictures for a how-to.
I wanted to change the axle seal, but the AT (unlike my 5-speed) doesn't seal to the axle. There is a pressed-on cup on the output shaft that the seal presses against. This requires a special tool to remove and put on, so I skipped replacing it. It can be done with the tool without removing the cover, so I can do it another time if it leaks.
The only question mark, when everything is assembled, is the transmission adaptive data erase. This will have to be done by a garage with the proper tool. I wonder how it will drive with the old adaptive data?
02-07-2019, 01:56 PM
