I unhooked the connector tot he PNP switch and removed the switch. There probably isn't any reason you couldn't keep it connected and set it aside if you like.

My sway bar links were Moog replacements that had the wrench flats on the ball side so they wont rotate when removing, so mine were easy to remove. Otherwise, without the wrench flats, they just rotate and you damage them removing them.

Before loosening up the subframe bolts, I disconnected the front and rear engine mounts that connect to the subframe by removing the 3 bolts at each mount that go through the subframe. Then I placed an adjustable jack stand under the transmission pan (with a piece of plywood on top of it to spread the load) so I could lower the transmission a few inches once I got the subframe lowered.

On the passenger side I loosened up the two subframe bolts (one also goes through the rear control arm bushing). Then I removed the two subframe bolts from the driver's side, which dropped the subframe about 4 inches on the driver side, allowing access to the bottom transmission side cover bolts.

I wouldn't worry about no fluid coming out when you removed a lower bolt. The gasket seal on the cover is very good, so removing just one bolt may not have opened the seal.

Steve

 

Just to make it more clear, there are 2 issues that keep you from removing the transmission side cover as the trans and subframe sit in normal operation:

1) The trans side cover goes about 2" above the top of the opening below the inner fender. By dropping the trans 2-3", you now can pull the side cover straight off without interference from the top.

2) The subframe covers the lower trans side cover bolts and also blocks the lower 2-3" of the side cover. There is probably room to reach behind the subframe and undo the bolts, but the subframe will still prevent you from pulling the cover straight off. Since you dropped the trans 2-3" to clear the top of the cover, you now need to drop the subframe 2-3" to clear the bottom. Since you already dropped the trans 2-3", now you need to drop the subframe about 5-6" from its original position since the trans is now 2-3" lower from its stock position.

Could you just drop the trans and subframe together about 2-3" without unbolting the two engine mounts from the subframe? Maybe, but I haven't tried. The side cover is not flat, I think it's about 2" thick to clear the transmission internal parts. That means you can't just unbolt it and slide it sideways and finagle it around until you can tilt it out the opening. Also I didn't want to bang the cover around trying to get it back on for fear of dislodging dirt from somewhere and having it fall into the cover. By using the method I used to drop trans and subframe independently, you can just pull the cover straight off.

Steve

 

Well i hope i didn't screw up from what i saw on your previous posts that i was to remove the sub frame bolts on the driver side which i did but have not removed the motor mounts yet or loosened up the passenger side sub frame bolts did not know it would be safe to do the motor mounts till it was jacked up i was under the assumption there would be weight on the trans thus i was worried it would drop when loosened when i took the motor mounts out. Do you leave the passenger side motor mount bolted then ? i believe there is one under the washer bottle. Did i miss any bolts on the drivers side sub frame? or there just 3?. So since i for the most part disconnected the whole drivers side sub frame as i see it do have to reconnect it to unbolt the trans bolts and motor mounts? sorry ive never done something like this before i'm real close to getting this done im taking more time than i or you might like im just to paranoid i guess hehe. that and the weather been brutal 90-98 degrees out side thanks Steve Roger

 

I left the passenger side motor mount bolted on. The passenger side of the engine/transmission assembly does not lower at all, only the driver side (where the transmission is located) gets tilted down.

There are 4 engine/transmission mounts. One on the upper passenger side, a front one bolted to the front of the subframe, a rear one bolted to the rear of the subframe, and one bolted to the top of the transmission on the driver side inner fender.

There are 2 bolts on the driver side and 2 bolts on the passenger side holding the subframe to the car.

When you removed the driver side subframe bolts, did the subframe drop down at all? I am guessing it didn't because the transmission mount on the driver side was still bolted on and it was holding everything up.

You need to place a jack (with a board on it to distribute the weight) under the transmission pan to keep the trans from dropping. Then unbolt the front and rear engine mounts from the subframe (keep the engine mount connected to the engine).
Finally, unbolt the driver side transmission mount from the transmission (I think there are 3 bolts facing downward that go into the transmission). Then the driver side of the subframe will no longer be held up by anything and it should drop down a few inches. I backed off the passenger side subframe bolts (2 of them facing upward) to allow the driver side to drop farther without stressing the passenger side bolts (there would be a bending force on them otherwise). Then you can lower the transmission as needed using the jack under the pan.

Steve

 

its me again i had a hard time getting the sub-frame to drop and it did but not enough then the cover was stuck wouldn't come loose finaly got it loose now cant get the trans cover out jacked it dropped it down loosened up passenger sub bolts still wont drop any further how far did you loosen the passenger sub bolts

 

Can you post a picture of how it looks now?

Steve

 

Let's keep the conversation in 1 thread.

 

sub frame

front

opening not enough clearance

 

i can take pictures of the other side passenger the bolts are loose but didnt seem to help dropping driver side those bolts are loose but not nearly as loose as drivers side

 

Did you remove the steering shaft bolt at the top of the rack and slide out the joint?

If not you need to do it, but first mark the position of both sides of the joint for reassembly.

Steve