Traction Bars, Parts List & Install
 

Here's a parts list & basic install from one of are friends at Cobalt SS Forum


http://www.cobaltss.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11821 :thumb:

Check, we use that list and this what you should have.
Attachment 27246

They do work really well, but I took them off because they clattered. I really liked the way they made the car track under acceleration. I did a similar setup, but I drilled holes in the side of the subframe and made a bracket to maintain my clearance. If you use the hole in the subframe you need to be more careful pulling into parking lots and such as that is the area the car can bottom out and those bolts essentially lower it another 1.5". I know I wouldn't be able to get into my driveway with those bolts with out hitting as I did have minor scuffing on the subframe from bottoming out....sucks I even hit my muffler tip leaving my driveway unless I drive out crooked...going to try talking my landlord into having it fixed so its a better transition...

Do you have the Powell control arm parts on your rig? From what it sounds like that setup will solve a lot of traction issues...though $100 bucks for traction bars is nice compared to $425 in control arm parts from Powell.

I don't yet, but I am looking into their Spherical CABs.

Nice addition to the traction department!!

Thanks RobSSTurbo it was your Video on your side exhaust where I saw your Traction Bars, I agree with hhrfreak & will design them for greater ground clearance, if theirs anything I don't like about my HHR it's the front end jumping to the left on hard acceleration.

I made mine for 90bucks and as for ground clearance its not a problem when i get the car back ill do the coke can test to show the clearance.

I installed the Traction Bars last Night & while I was installing them I was looking out for any causes for clattering, One thing I noticed & will take care of when I upgrade the clutch, if the forward bolts thru the frame are not tight the bolts can move back & forth in the hole, when I have the crossmember removed I will weld a thick 5/8 washer top & bottom of the existing 5/8 hole, the holes thru the frame are not round & this would cause the clatter.

Take a piece of spacer the same inside diameter as the bolt and place (weld) inside the frame holes..adds strength to frame and keeps bolts from walking around and loosening....
might also devise a way to make these bars quick disconnect types so under normal driving they can be removed as Im sure they cause binding up under full suspens
ion travel

yeah, I'm doing this before the next G2G in June.