Hello. I've owned my 08 SS for three years and have successfully consulted this forum over its numerous issues. This time I've had to join and plead for help. On the way home today, my turbo stopped spooling and there's simply no boost. I stopped and got Advance to pull my codes and it appears it's a MAF. Other posts also point that way. BUT, the transmission codes are overwhelming. Here they are: P0700, P0717, P0976, P2764, P0717-00, P0961-00, P0976-00 and P2764-00. Since I've bought it it has shifted hard from 2nd to 3rd. Forum posts says internal speed sensor. PO says new trans. I have the receipts so I've just put up with it. So wondering if there is anything to look for to solve the low voltage problem other than replacing the internal speed sensor. ALSO, wanted to share that a bad thermostat CAN cause overheating. One day driving in traffic, the dash gauged pegged. I pulled over and the fans weren't on so I changed the fans. Still the problem persisted, See pic below to see what the problem was.

Thanks for reading the rant - any help would be appreciated.

 

The first thing to do is the engine. Get it running right before tackling the tranny.
The engine running bad can create tranny problems.

 

That is not the t-stat, that is some foreign material blocking the valve. Not to mention the correct t-stat does not have a secondary valve

My guess is some pins in the TCM connector are compromised or some wire is burned or a fuse is blown. Fuse #45 under hood.
Maybe, check the park/neutral switch for proper positions, it may not have been installed correctly when the tranny was replaced.

 

@donbrew Yes, I replaced the T-stat with the one recommended on here but many of the posts on here stated that a bad thermostat could never cause overheating. In this case it did. Just trying to help others out who would have had the same problem. I will check the items you suggested, @greg8453 Thanks for the advice. The car was running great until today but the trans has been having shift issues since I bought it. Just never enough to cause me to tear into it. I was just shocked at how many codes it pulled.

 

My defense was that the t-tat was not the reason for overheating, it was the incorrect t-stat and foreign objects. The t-stat valve is open in your pic, but blocked. ; not a malfunction.
Even when they get stuck open by a dislodged gasket it is not the t-stat malfunctioning, it is the gasket that is on incorrect parts.
I don't know how the secondary valve fit at all. I don't know what effect the secondary valve would have.

The historic hard shifting may have come from the t-stat being open and an ignored/masked P0128. The pic looks like somehow the outer gasket got installed where the inner gasket is supposed to be.

Most of the tranny codes come from an electrical problem. Maybe the 2-3 solenoid has decided to completely short out and burn some wires up.
Did you ask what "new trans." means?

Without some DTC code it is not possible to diagnose the turbo on the interwebs.

 

@donbrew Thanks. The new trans installed came with a receipt from a reputable local transmission shop. The job was north of $2K. Car is also showing a P0101 code MAF. My guess it's that causing the turbo to not spool up. I don't think the turbo itself is bad. I will first clean the MAF and check the obvious like hoses, and pipe cracks etc. I also recently changed the air filter and I read that the MAF may not have liked the one I picked so I also bought a new AC Delco one to eliminate that possibility.

 

With engine idling tap on the sensor. If the idle stumbles or stalls the sensor has a bad ground on it's board and needs to be replaced. If it don't react doesn't mean it's good.

 

MAF problems can be caused by over oiling oil film type air filters, not the other way.
Do you mean the P0101 was there before you disconnected the MAF? MAFs don't break very often usually it is a bad/forgotten connection or a fuse.

A connection to the turbo problem is that the P0101 test is inhibited if the turbo bypass valve is open it also disables the boost control. That might point to the bypass valve. I don't know much about turbos.

 

Yes, I haven't changed or cleaned the MAF yet. It will be either tonight or tomorrow. I'm checking the easy things before replacing the turbo. Looks like they're about $300. Don't know how tough they are to replace. I'm sure the forum has a how-to somewhere. A mechanic friend always said "Horses before Zebras" meaning check the obvious and easy first. I will check the fuses. Thanks for the advice.

 

There is a link in my sig to FREE shop manuals.

Here is the entire section from Mitchell OnDemand
turbo.pdf