Chevy HHR Network - Problems/Service/Repairs

PID P0451 and P2187

lazaino — Tue, 19 May 2026 00:05:41 GMT

I have these 2 pids. My cheap scanner did not show the P2187 and the gas cap looks fine and is tight. I'm assuming the P2187, "System to lean at idle Bank 1," might indicate a leak near the intake manifold. My cheap scanner shows graphs of things that might cause the P0451. The quiet parts are idle and the noisy parts are driving. Don't know if that will help?

Any hints on where to start looking would be appreciated. If it matters, it showed up shortly after replacing the radiator fan.

SOLVED: Blower motor gets voltage but won't run.

HHRTooOld — Mon, 18 May 2026 19:37:27 GMT

PROBLEM:
My HVAC blower, behind the glove box would not run.
There was voltage at the harness connector, for low and medium, but not high setting.
When I replace the motor, there was no change.
When I measure resistance from the ground wire on the harness connector to the chassis, there was no resistance.
When I replace the motor control resistor, there was no change.
When I connected the motor directly to the battery, it ran.
When I plugged the motor back into the harness, it would not run on any setting.
When I connected one spade on the motor connector to voltage and the other to ground, it ran.

RESOLUTION:
Replaced the blower motor switch.
The old switch had dielectric grease inside that has was old and crusty on the contacts. There was enough contact to allow voltage, but not enough to carry the current needed to run the motor. In addition, the main contact was overheating and was melting the case.

part number: unknown
Purchase source:

Amazon

I hope this helps.

Airbag light flashes for 5 seconds then disappears at start up.

HalcyonDays — Sun, 17 May 2026 15:44:53 GMT

The airbag light flashes for around 5-7 seconds, turns off, and then doesn't come back on until the next time I start the car up. Even if the light doesn't stay on after the inital flashes, does this mean that the air bags are disabled?

My starter won't turn over also one of my headlights is staying on even though I turn

Mattathias — Wed, 13 May 2026 07:59:54 GMT

Okay my car was running 20 minutes ago I stopped and went to go start my car and it would not start won't even turn over I got to jump and it still won't turn over but for some reason one of the headlights is staying on even though I don't have a key or any car is off I also tried hurting the lights off and nothing's working but this one single headlight which is draining my battery I'm stuck behind Big o tires so anybody have any ideas of what's going on with my car let me know

Electrical issues?

Kjahhr — Mon, 11 May 2026 09:00:01 GMT

Just got a 2010 hhr drove perfect for 5 or so days then esc message and traction light came intermittently over the last 2 days now leaving work shutoff after driving about a quarter mile and crank no start since then.

Various electrical issues open to suggestions

KrazyFokcer — Sun, 10 May 2026 03:51:50 GMT

- A while ago my cruise control just stopped working.... Gonna check some fuses. But the power light on the steering wheel still turns on??- Then there is the issue of my headlights/taillights turning off at night when I have a passenger in the passenger seat. Just turns on and off randomly. Does it during the day too as long as there is a passenger..... I honestly have no idea where to start with this. I am open to suggestions and any recommendations on what to look at.- chasing the reason why my 12v sockets on the console just quit working. Fuse first then, chase my tail.- one of my coworkers used his scan tool to help me reset the CEL from installing the new temp sensor and forgot to save the scan because there were several older DTC codes that popped up, so I'll have him scan it again Tuesday and send me the breakdown of what all has popped up.- I may look at installing the resistors at the turn signals to get rid of the rapid flash issue. I have the resistors, just have to locate them, hehehe.- I really just need to make a list of everything and just use it as a punch list.- under car LED light kit, led rock light kit, interior LED lighting, cargo area organization

Loss of dash power with new aftermarket radio.

brenizerb — Sat, 09 May 2026 12:14:07 GMT

I recently purchased a 2011 Chevy HHR LS from someone on Facebook marketplace. I wanted to add an aftermarket stereo, so I purchased the BOSS Audio Systems BE7ACP-C Car Stereo. I purchased a RED WOLF Radio Wiring Harness w/Antenna Adapter, which indicates it should be compatable with my HHR. I couldn't get the head unit to power on so I watched a few YouTube videos about tapping into a fuse in the interior fuse box, which worked, and the head unit powered on! When I turn the key the head unit powers on, but the gauges on my dash don't work and all of my warning lights are on and won't turn off. I haven't been able to find any solutions to this issue online. Any suggesting on what's going on?

Is there an actual ABS Relay in the HHR???

chaosdsm — Fri, 08 May 2026 00:20:35 GMT

One of the codes coming up on my Xtool D7X scantool is for ABS Relay - C0201-04, but I cannot find such a thing on the HHR? Is this something like the high brake light relay that's in a different place from most of the other relays??? Or is it just a generic description for the code & something else is causing it???

P0172 code after replacing VVT solenoids and Mass Airflow Sensor

FozzyOsbourne — Thu, 07 May 2026 22:27:50 GMT

Hey all. The 08 LT 2.4 was running rough. I had the code for a faulty exhaust VVT solenoid and faulty MAF sensor, so I went ahead and replaced both solenoids thanks to the helpful tutorial here, and replaced the MAF sensor. I also replaced the air filter (it was filthy) and looked at the throttle body opening while I was there. Very little carbon build up, but I sprayed some throttle body cleaner on a soft brush and cleaned it up, pressed open the butterfly valve a bit and cleaned the edges around it. I put everything back together, reconnected the battery, and started it up.
The good news is that it started up. Ran smooth for a few minutes, then started running rough again.
Drove it to the grocery store and got a new CEL. Connected the scanner and got a P0172 - fuel trim system rich.
Then it died at a stoplight. Thankfully started up again.
Got home and did the throttle body relearn. Disconnected the battery for 30 minutes. Started it up and idled for 3 minutes. Off for 1 minute. Idle for 3 minutes. Off for 1 minute. Rescanned and got the same P0172 code.
Live data showed short term fuel trim. bank 1 sensor at - 9.37% and bank 2 at 99. 2%

Any ideas what my next step should be? I'm tempted to put the old MAF sensor back in.

Car not charging

Bob-K — Sun, 03 May 2026 17:02:41 GMT

Bear with me on this, I'll try to be brief. For a couple of months the car was hard starting. Almost like a near dead battery, but then it would start. Replaced the battery - no change. Then one day it quit starting. No clicking or anything. Replaced the starter and it started with a jump. Then the dash lit up like a xmas tree and got an alert that car was in battery saver mode. Recharged the battery, reset the codes and disconnected the neg terminal for about 20 minutes. Restarted the car and after a few minutes the battery light came and alerted to check charging system. Checked with a voltmeter and the alternator isn't putting out any voltage (checking from large terminal at the back to ground). Removed alternator and had it bench tested several times at different places and it passed each time. I'm at a loss. Could it be the larger cable coming from the back of the alternator? Does this cable go directly to the starter? Can I test with a jumper wire from the starter to the alternator wire? All of the fuses in the fusebox check good. Prior to the starter going out, the alternator was putting out about 14.5 volts.

Another problem found 2010 HHR LS - leaking windshield

chaosdsm — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 21:35:07 GMT

So, I just found yet another problem with my newish 2010 HHR LS, the windshield leaks into the cabin, passenger side directly over the glove compartment. The seal visually looks good from the outside, but definitely is not.

I was trying to test out if the windshield washer pump relay was bad, or if it might be the pump itself. So I turned on the hose & let it run over the windshield so that it wasn't dry when I tried the washer fluid. Washer fluid still does not pump, but I noticed water droplets hitting the dashboard, then also a steady stream of water running down the inside of the windshield :yikes:

I'm guessing there's a chance those PPS codes I see from the new scanner are related to this leak. Never noticed it during the little bit of rain we've received lately, probably not falling at the right angle to get into the crack or hole in the upper seal with enough volume of water.

No rain in forecast for next several days, & it sits under a carport, so what's best for fix the leak, flowable silicone windshield sealant, or something more like Urethane Windshield Installation Adhesive? I've read that the silicone works but is considered a "temporary fix" and is less than $10. While the Urethane is supposed to be a permanent fix (then why is it leaking....) but is 3x to 5x the price for 3x more product than I will use....

Xtool D7X Scantool

chaosdsm — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 19:13:47 GMT

Thought I'd share my findings with my newly acquired Xtool D7X scantool.

Compared to the Innova SDS43, this thing is a BEAST! I wish I could have held onto the SDS43 until the D7X came in because most of the online specs for the SDS43 are wrong :(

Some comparisons of the two:
> SDS43 FREE "Lifetime" updates... D7X 3 years of FREE updates and $99 per year after that if you need updates after that. Won't need paid updates for the HHR, but IF I were to get a newer vehicle at some point in the future, it might be handy to do a 1 time update after those first 3 years.
> SDS43 uses a 4.3" display (not touchscreen) D7X uses a 7" touchscreen display
> SDS43 was about a half pound with 2AA batteries installed - D7X weighs 1lb 9.33oz with the internal Lithium Ion rechargeable battery - weights do not include the cable.
> SDS43 seemed to be smaller than the D7X which measures 8.75" x 6" x 1.375" - dimensions & weight I find listed for the SDS43 are incorrect - they seem to be the retail box dimensions
> Out of the box, the SDS43 was simple & fast, just plug it in & scan.... D7X has to be configured, updated, and registered before you can begin to use it.
> SDS43 found a total of 12 OEM codes, which I had fixed down to just 4* when I sent it back.... the D7X found a total of 13 OEM codes, looks like more in-depth breakdown of some of the same things.

*SDS43 showed 2 faults in each of the EBCM, PPS, & SIR modules, though the two in PPS & SIR are identical.

> SDS43 is faster to ready, but slower to scan... i.e. SDS43 auto scan took about 3 minutes to run, D7X auto scan takes about 45 seconds. But... SDS43 is ready to go in about 1 minute, D7X takes about 5 minutes including adding the vehicle you're working on.
> SDS43 seemed to save the last vehicle scanned, so it was ready to use quickly. D7X on the other hand has to have the vehicle setup in the scan tool every time before it's ready to do anything.
> SDS43 cannot do any meaningful programming for the HHR, but the D7X can!
> SDS43 unknown storage size, unknown memory size - D7X 32GB storage size, 2GB memory size - both of which are a bit lacking and no expansion options :( 2 scans in & already at 40% storage capacity used & without even doing much, just programming 1 key fob, then running the scan detailed below = 98% memory utilization.

Programming a new key fob, took about 10 seconds to find where, and 1 minute to program - because my interior speakers do not work, so I get no chimes or alerts (like when the fob has been programmed), therefore I have to wait the full minute till the program cycle goes to next step. - however, it did not program the panic button on the new fob???? Looking into where to go to calibrate / learn BPPS so I can tackle the BCM code.

Here's my first auto-scan report for the D7X:

Page 2:

SDS43 showed the B0019-04 & B0019-0D in both SIR & PPS modules, where the D7X shows 7 different items in the PPS - I'm guessing that's just due to the extended capability of the D7X scantool.

The descriptions in the D7X PPS section make me think ground needs to be tightened and/or dirty or corroded contacts.

Unstable instruments

cchamb2 — Mon, 27 Apr 2026 22:46:24 GMT

I'm having a problem with the dash instruments on my 2010 HHR LS.

Most of the time they are fine. Fuel guage and tach reliably reflect the engine running.

Sometimes the tach goes to zero and back to the proper reading. The fuel guage does the same. The diagnostic message change (check power steering, low fuel, traction ESC, that sort of thing).

The car seems to continue to run normally. Brakes work, there is plenty of fuel in the tank, steering is fine, that sort of thing.

Then it goes back to normal and it's normal for a couple of day.

Any thoughts?

Headlights wont turn off

kmdakota1 — Fri, 24 Apr 2026 02:58:56 GMT

just encounterd this two days ago. came back from lunch and headlights won't shut off as well as parking lights and instrument panel lights. I turn the auto switch to off and no response. Won't even say "auto lights off" on the dash. only way to get the lights off is to pull the low beam relay, park light relay and IPC cluster fuse at the BCM.

First thing was check all fuses and all good and check for codes and none found. Went into the BCM module and looked for codes there as well and none found. Swapped relays 71 and 72 and even tried a new relay but didn't fix it. Second fix was put a new headlight switch on. Put the relays back in and didn't even touch the switch and headlights right back on and still no "auto lights off" message when turning the switch. Disconnect the wire harness to the new switch and all the lights shut off, relays still in. Third fix attempt was a new ambient light sensor. No change.

Today, I disconnected battery for 30 mins. While the battery was unhooked, I put all relays back in. After 30 mins I hooked the battery back up and to my surprise no lights on. Turned the headlight switch to Auto off just to see if it would respond and it did and I got the message on the dash "auto lights off" and the accompanying chime. Turned the switch to park lights and park lights responded on. Turned switch to headlights and they responded on. Flicked high beams and they responded. Turned the headlight switch to off and now won't respond, lights stuck on again. Almost like once the lights are activated it locks the relays on. Unhooking the battery seems to "reset" everything until you turn the lights on again.

Looking back on past posts from this site, it seems to point to either short to ground or BCM. I am no wizard with wiring schematics but having looked at the lighting circuit diagram in Donbrews link to shop manual, it appears that the only way the lights would light up is if the relay is energized from pin #86 on the high and low beam relays. Lo beam is triggered from the on/off switch and high beam by ground in the BCM. In reality i guess they're all controlled by ground from the BCM. the only other way would be if there were a short to ground on the pin #86 wires after the BCM which I find hard to believe I'd have a short for parking lamps, headlights and IPC which would be three seperate wires.

What testing can I do to start trying to pinpoint the source? I didn't do any recent work on the car. Not having any other problems with the car. Theres is nothing else acting up that would make me think BCM but apparently these cars are know for BCM issues. I hope that's not true.

As always, I appreciate the input from everyone on here and also a big thankyou to Donbrew for that link to the shop manual. It has been priceless.

Help Bringing Back My HHR (Electrical)

mswillowrae — Thu, 23 Apr 2026 01:19:55 GMT

My 06 HHR 2LT has been sitting for a few years, and I thought the battery had just died...but looks like bigger issues.

I replaced the battery tonight after climbing in the trunk and using the emergency release, and it sprang back to life. All the lights and such in accessory mode were working, got a few indicators on the dash (check engine light and check airbag message).
However, I went to start it, and then it died again. Everything turned off, even in accessory mode, and the key was stuck (guessing Passlock). I manually removed the key, but now I can't even get things on in accessory mode again, all I have is the blinking orange padlock on the far left. Hoping its something silly, and she's not dead dead.