Chevy HHR Network

Left backup light�

Gearhead1 — Wed, 03 Jun 2026 18:26:22 GMT

Anybody have a decent one? Just had a guy to back up into mine and busted it�.and bent rear fender and hatch.

PART OUT: Chevy HHR – Strong Running Engine

CierraY10 — Tue, 02 Jun 2026 22:22:08 GMT

Parting out Chevy HHR. Engine runs strong for its age and the timing chain has already been replaced. Vehicle has been involved in two accidents during its lifetime and the rear frame is bent, so this is being sold strictly as a parts vehicle. Rear-end damage is shown in the photos.

Body has rust in common areas and a few broken/missing windows, but there are still plenty of good usable parts available. Drivetrain, interior components, doors, front-end parts, suspension, wheels, trim, electronics, and more.

Maintenance and repair records dating back to 2017 may be available upon request, including work performed by my mechanic.

NOT selling as a roadworthy vehicle. Message me with the parts you need and I’ll let you know availability and pricing. Serious inquiries only.

Lower injector seal install help

jmarines — Sun, 31 May 2026 22:38:22 GMT

Any advice on how to install the lower injector seal on a 2009 ss? I purchased the seal kit ( ES73819) and I can only slide it down the cone about an inch before it stops. I already broke one seal when I apparently put to much pressure to slide it down the cone on the install tool. Is there a trick or did I get the wrong part number? It feels like the seal is way to small... The videos Ive seen doesn't require much force to slide...

Coolant In Upper Hose?

Bird Doo Head — Sat, 30 May 2026 23:27:46 GMT

Hi All,
I have a 2006 HHR. The coolant, when engine is cold, is at the upper, horizontal protrusion on the rear of the tank. There are two protrusions: A shorter one down low and a wider one up about 2" higher as is seen in this very helpful sticky by RJ_RS_SS_350 https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/main...ank-pic-55772/. This is where my coolant level is.
The owner's manual doesn't have a drawing of the tank, so I am guessing which bump to fill coolant at. I apologize, but none of the photos on line look like the tank in my car. Those all have one protrusion.

My question is that if I take the pressure cap off of the upper hose and the engine is off, there is no coolant in that hose. I can see that the hose has had coolant because the bottom is damp. Is it normal for there to be no coolant in that hose with engine cold and off?

A second question if I may: I had to add 8 ounces of coolant because the level was all the way to the horizontal, round nipple on the bottom of the tank. Where does coolant go? (I've not added coolant for 2-1/4 years & 4,600 miles ago when it got flushed & filled.)

Thanks For Helping!
Paul

I plasti sprayed the rear set of my rims, but have since peeled the spray off...

HHR SS 3M... — Sat, 30 May 2026 07:50:42 GMT

Plasti sprayed the rear rims, they came out perfect, but I recently decided to peel the spray off = this is a fairly recent picture...

my DELILAH

HHR SS 3M... — Sat, 30 May 2026 07:22:01 GMT

I had a few decals around her exterior, but I decided to go back to a cleaner look...

BCM harness issues

kmdakota1 — Tue, 26 May 2026 03:25:03 GMT

Seem to be having an issue with the X2 harness to the bcm. Every once in awhile I lose the signal wire to the brake pedal position sensor. I have confirmed this with a multimeter by back probing at the sensor. I have ground and 5v reference but nothing when i push the brake pedal. Traced the wires back to the bcm (pin 31 yellow wire) and back probed it as well and reads zero.

With the meter still hooked up, I wiggle the harness around sometimes unclamping the harness and reclamping and then I'll get the signal back, confirmed by pressing brake pedal. It will work fine for a few weeks then all the sudden I get in the car and start it and first thing the traction light is on. Repeat the process of wiggling and unseating and reseating then it works. Happened again over the weekend except now it's getting more and more difficult to correct. I've cleaned, inspected and tried dielectric grease (can that make it worse?)

I labeled all the wires to their pin location on the harness and removed all the pins and used a needle nose pliers to squeeze the little slip on collars to make sure they are tight. Put it all back together but it didn't seem to help because if I play with the connector after it's seated I can still make the signal wire cut out. It's currently working right now but I'm preparing for the next bout.

What I want to know is if I get another harness at the junk yard and solder it in, will that cause any resistance problems for the bcm. I don't think I have to do all the wires, I would just do the three for the brake pedal sensor. I'm quite certain it's not the bcm. All the pins look good unless there's a loose connection inside the module. I don't have any other problems and surely i would think if the bcm was acting up there would be more wierd issues with the car.

Cooling fan help

Shakes — Sat, 23 May 2026 19:06:20 GMT

The other day i stopped at bank and when I came back out it started kinda weird. Anyways ac and cooling fan quit working. I swapped the cooling fan relay no difference. I jumped pin 30 to pin 87 (have 12 volts there) and fan still doesnt run.. Figured no biggie, fans go bad. So I replaced it today, didnt fix my issue.

With the pins 30 and 87 jumped I still I still dont have power to the connector for the cooling fan. I have no continuity from pin 87 to the plug at the fan motor though I do have continuity to one pin of the connector to ground, so I dont think its a ground issue. Fuses are good. At a loss, appreciate any help anyone can give.

Battery ground nut stuck

Drewblee — Sat, 23 May 2026 01:06:26 GMT

Hey all! Long time lurker, first time poster.

Currently finishing a big 3 and alternator upgrade to serve a stupidly large sub ive installed in the cargo space. As part of the same overarching project im upgrading the sound deadening, fixing some leaks, and replacing the carpet. Im very inexperienced, so this has been a journey for me lol.

in the back of the car, where the ground goes from the battery to the chassis, the connecting bolt is on a sort of flap.

I cannot for the life of me loosen this bolt. I hit it with some wd-40 and i keep trying to loosen it slightly while supporting the flap, but im afraid of damaging the flap in some way. It flexes as i torque on the nut, and i dont feel i can generate enough force while supporting the flap to get it loose.

Once i can get this cable lug slipped over it the electrical work will be done! Any tips for a newbie like me?

Knocking

Notagain — Sat, 23 May 2026 00:57:20 GMT

I have a 2009 LT. Lately I have noticed a shake in the front at highway speed and when I turn the steering wheel at low speeds or when parked I hear knocking. I am wondering if it could be the steering rack or ball joints. How do I find out what it might be? If it is the steering rack is it safe to drive or not?

Kyle Busch has passed away

Oldblue — Fri, 22 May 2026 12:58:12 GMT

Sad news , I am in shock reading the news this morning, here�s a link

https://www.nascar.com/news-media/20...ies-at-age-41/

He will be missed!

Steering and engine oil issues

Dylan Wilson — Thu, 21 May 2026 17:47:42 GMT

2009 -LT2 - 105k
Couple issues: looking for thoughts please and tyia

1) started popping right front side when turning wheel while driving. Replaced both CV axles. Still popping, just not as often

2) since the new cv axles got put in, now when I turn the wheel, say to turn out of a driveway on to the road, going around an off ramp, or coming out a parking spot, the wheel gets �stuck� there instead of rolling back like it usually would and I have to forcibly turn the wheel fully back to the straight position to get the tires to straighten out. Almost feels like loosing power steering but not fully out. *Add* driven 3 days like this until I can get it back into the shop, it�s progressively gotten worse. Today it is now popping/crackling/clicking on the inside of the car in the steering column

3) every single time I change the oil, when the count down on the dash gets to about 45% life left, suddenly the oil goes from full to damn near empty on the dip stick. I�ve gotten to where I start checking it daily once it hits about 55% left and sure enough over the course of one day the oil will suddenly disappear. No signs of leaks on the ground. Had it up on the lift and looking from above with no signs of leaks anywhere. This has been happening since I bought it at 83k miles about 3 years ago. This one really blows my mind 😅

Can someone tell me the best way to remove the O2 sensors? Special socket needed?

Ericwest11 — Thu, 21 May 2026 14:48:18 GMT

Can I slip a box end wrench over the connector and slide the wrench down to the O2 sensor? If not what is the best way to take them out? Thanks in advance!!

Hard shifts

exukpaul — Wed, 20 May 2026 23:34:17 GMT

Hey Guys. First time poster.
I'll try make this as short as I can.
So I've had my van now for past 7 years. A couple of years ago it randomly gave me hard shifts. When i turn vehicle off and then start back up it is fine for a while. Also, randomly if i pull up at a stop sign or red light or something it feels like I'm in a stick shift and you are going too slow in too high a gear if you know what i mean. Well, about 6 months ago, the transmission took a complete dump so i bought a used one from a salvage place online. Came with a 3 month warranty but dumb ass here took too long to get in and back up and running so the warranty lapsed. So, I've basically got the exact same problem with this one. Just seems a bit of a coincidence that i have the exact same problems with both of them. I took it to a transmission shop and they just said it needs rebuilding. Not sure if that would be true or they just trying to get a bigger job out of it.While changing trans i put a new torque converter in. I've bought a new tcm but that didn't change anything.
Do you think this trans is goosed or maybe something else i could try ? I'm about over throwing good money after bad. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

3 rd brake light cover

D type — Tue, 19 May 2026 17:44:46 GMT

In changing the bulbs I broke off the tabs that hold the rear window brake light cover
Tried gluing them back but they just continue to brake
Looking for a source of a replacement cover ( black ) Thanks for any help with this