I feel todays 'good oils" don't need any additives.

But I do run some Seafoam thru the gas, bout once a year. I don't feel any difference, but mine seems to run fine anyhow.

& clean the MAF sensor & throttle body every few years.

With full synthetic I feel comfortable without oil additives. For preventive reasons I am use to running Lucas G.(fuel injector) treatment a couple times a year in my previous vehicles. I did notice Lucas makes a synthetic oil treatment, but see no need for it.
Next is the MAF sensor, not worried about screwing that up but I am stressed about the throttle body cleaning after reading thru a few posts that I've read here on HHR....
Thanks for the input and suggestions.

Don't be too stressed....

Rule #1. Remove negative battery post cable FIRST.

Rule #2. Once you get the throttle body off, Set it down carefully and relax a bit while you think about your next steps.
Make sure you do not feel rushed.

#3. Keep in mind at all times you do not want to do anything that will disturb the throttle plate in the closed position.

#4. Have any instruments or tools, shop towels etc. out and ready to use.

#5. The throttle body gasket may or may not need replacing. Probably not, but I would have a new one on hand just in case.

#6. Do not be impatient in getting all the gunk off as it can be a bugger and you might need a small brush or Q tip to remove it. Just tread lightly around the throttle plate area.
You will know it is clean enough when you are satisfied how it looks.
Be sure to do both sides. You will probably need a full can of cleaner if it is really dirty.

#7 Go easy when you replace the 4 bolts putting it back on.
Tighten one corner then move to the opposite corner and so on.
I just lightly wrench them with my 1/4" drive socket so the body is completely touching and try to do it evenly.

Good Luck and stay relaxed .......

Silverfox

Silverfox

Thanks a bunch for the well thought out and written directions, I got a printer the other day and will print it out and keep it on hand when working ...looks like it wont be today, storms are coming.....

And thanks to all who have responded...I truly appreciate all the input...

Silverfox puts it into words better than I did. But do remember, whilst you have that battery disconnected, Do Not close the rear hatch, place a towel over the latch. And as stated, take your time, and relax

Oldblue,
Just added that to my check list........

Thank you !

Good Point Blue,

I am so used to working on my HHR in a Garage that is long enough to pull the vehicle all the way forward and open the rear hatch with some clearance behind still left.

Many HHR owners probably do not have that luxury and if the weather is bad they need to close the back end or just don't know or realize what the problem is when the battery is disconnected and you close the rear hatch.:thumb:

Silverfox

Been there done that!! Doh!!

Update,

Went ahead this morning and cleaned the MAF sensor , and Throttle Body......Had all the correct spays , it took me about 45 min. with a break here and there to relax, The MAF sensor looked new ,well at least clean, sprayed it down, then on to the T.B.assy, easy enough to get to and remove, it didn't look to gummed up , sprayed it down and I must say the T.B. Cleaner isn't a very strong cleaning agent, but must be for some reason, took a lot of spraying to get what little cleaning it needed to do the job. BTW I followed the instructions given in this post to the T, Thanks for the instructions, when it all was reassembled and battery connected she started up just fine and NO engine lights or codes.....(purchased a BlueDriver , OBD2 code reader.)

Next task cooling system flush.

Thanks again,
Mike Cossey

I have used Lucas Injector and Top-End Cleaner (or whatever it is called). It seemed to help the injectors a little on engines without DI. Nothing on the DI (HHR SS).

It also noticeably thinned the engine oil. My Saabaru would blow double the oil through the PCV after treatment. So, I tended to treat the injectors shortly before changing the oil. Everyone else is correct in saying that good oils work better than older versions of dino oil, and the need is minimal.

Do you need to do it? Are you competing? If not, the value is dubious. When I was doing it, I was also using specially-gapped copper plugs and other stuff to win in autocross. Throttle response was improved, and that was my goal.

The average person will see little benefit. Thin oil could be problematic in high temp situations.