“Auto Light On” doesn’t work.
Voltage from the alternator charges the battery, it doesn’t drain the battery.
check the static voltage of the battery, engine not running, ignition key off and out of the ignition switch. That should be 12.4 V or higher
check the static voltage of the battery, engine not running, ignition key off and out of the ignition switch. That should be 12.4 V or higher
The regulator is the BCM. The demand comes from that strange thing wrapped around the negative battery cable.
I am sensing that you are expecting things of the auto lights that are not part of it. In AUTO mode the low beams are on always no tail lights or marker lights WHEN the trans is not in park and the key is on: When it gets dark the tail lights and marker lights go on. When the key is turned off AND the driver door open then closes the head lights and tail lights go off on a timer In ON mode the head lights and tail light are on until you turn them OFF
I am sensing that you are expecting things of the auto lights that are not part of it. In AUTO mode the low beams are on always no tail lights or marker lights WHEN the trans is not in park and the key is on: When it gets dark the tail lights and marker lights go on. When the key is turned off AND the driver door open then closes the head lights and tail lights go off on a timer In ON mode the head lights and tail light are on until you turn them OFF
Yes, a good battery should hold at least 12.4 volts for quite some time, but these cars seem to prefer a little more than that. I would definitely just replace a battery that won't hold 12.6
First step is to check the voltage at the battery posts after the car is set overnight before you touch anything else.
Lead acid batteries need to remain charged. A battery that has sat in the cold for any length of time in a discharge state can have internal shorts due to sulfating. This can happen even with a very new battery. A battery that self discharges to 10.5-10.8 V probably has such a short in one of its six cells.
A newish battery might be repairable with a battery conditioner, but may not be worth the trouble.
First step is to check the voltage at the battery posts after the car is set overnight before you touch anything else.
Lead acid batteries need to remain charged. A battery that has sat in the cold for any length of time in a discharge state can have internal shorts due to sulfating. This can happen even with a very new battery. A battery that self discharges to 10.5-10.8 V probably has such a short in one of its six cells.
A newish battery might be repairable with a battery conditioner, but may not be worth the trouble.
Yes, a good battery should hold at least 12.4 volts for quite some time, but these cars seem to prefer a little more than that. I would definitely just replace a battery that won't hold 12.6
First step is to check the voltage at the battery posts after the car is set overnight before you touch anything else.
Lead acid batteries need to remain charged. A battery that has sat in the cold for any length of time in a discharge state can have internal shorts due to sulfating. This can happen even with a very new battery. A battery that self discharges to 10.5-10.8 V probably has such a short in one of its six cells.
A newish battery might be repairable with a battery conditioner, but may not be worth the trouble.
First step is to check the voltage at the battery posts after the car is set overnight before you touch anything else.
Lead acid batteries need to remain charged. A battery that has sat in the cold for any length of time in a discharge state can have internal shorts due to sulfating. This can happen even with a very new battery. A battery that self discharges to 10.5-10.8 V probably has such a short in one of its six cells.
A newish battery might be repairable with a battery conditioner, but may not be worth the trouble.


