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06 HHR Engine Noise - Anyone know what this is?

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Old Nov 25, 2022 | 01:40 AM
  #11  
PulpFriction's Avatar
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Originally Posted by donbrew
Oldblue recently found that when installing a water pump it is possible for the sprocket holder to slip a bit causing a "whirr" from the balance chain.
Sprocket holder???
Old Nov 25, 2022 | 07:16 AM
  #12  
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The chain tensioner
Old Nov 25, 2022 | 08:59 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by PulpFriction
Sprocket holder???
The tool used to hold the sprocket when changing the water pump without changing the chains.


Old Nov 25, 2022 | 09:01 AM
  #14  
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That’s the tool! You have to ensure that the chain doesn’t move when you torque the bolts!
Old Nov 25, 2022 | 10:44 AM
  #15  
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Oh. That. Water Pump Sprocket Holder, aka Water Pump Tool, aka Water Pump Sprocket Retainer…

Last edited by PulpFriction; Nov 28, 2022 at 12:41 PM.
Old Nov 25, 2022 | 10:47 AM
  #16  
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https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...et-tool-65613/
Old Nov 25, 2022 | 11:01 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
You checked the timing and all timing components, by removing the timing cover again?

Between the extreme sludge build up, all the metal shavings from the old timing components, and applying and sanding JBWeld inside the engine, I would be thinking that's rod knock. Caused by blocked oil passages.
I’m hearing (very roughly timed) only about 360 bangs/minute, maybe half the speed of a 720 rpm idle, so suggesting something more likely in the valve train?

A single sticking valve? Or some other broken piece?

Compression check?

(Not sure I’m even buying my own logic here, in part because I think I’m hearing a 4/4 cadence.)
Old Nov 25, 2022 | 11:09 AM
  #18  
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If the valve cover is off inspect for damaged valve train parts
Old Sep 16, 2024 | 07:10 PM
  #19  
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Let me clarify more for u guys. The first thing I did when I started the job was to take off the valve cover & I saw the timing chain with a lot of slack just hanging under the top guide. I then took off the harmonic balancer & the timing cover, & I saw the balance shaft chain had a lot of slack also. All guides were intact. I then took out the #1 spark plug nearest the passenger tire. I cleaned off the surface around the #1 plug & covered the plug hole with a piece of duct tape, just as i did when working on my v8 engines when finding tdc.

I rotated the HHR crank with a big ratchet & when the key way was at 12 o'clock, the tape was still intact, so i rotated the engine again & as the key way was "approaching" 12 o'clock again, air started escaping from the taped spark plug hole. I did this about twenty times & the cam sprocket marks never lined up at 10 & 2 o'clock as all of the videos I've watched states.

On the exhaust stroke the balance shaft chain was already lining up with the intake mark at 12, exhaust at 6, & the crank at 6 lined up with the block mark, but the cam sprocket marks never lined up with intake at 2, nor did the exhaust line up at 10 during the compression stroke.

The last compression stroke rotation that I did, the balance shaft marks were all lined up correctly. But the cam intake sprocket mark was at about 12:30 instead of 2 o'clock, I misspoke when I said it was off by 2 teeth.

I ordered the complete cloyes kit with the water pump & balance shaft gears, but I didn't replace these, but everything else was replaced. All guides, both tensioners, oil nozzle, both chains, both crank pulleys, both camshaft bolts, new crank bolt, I also ordered & replaced the upgraded black timing guide's upper bolt, new timing & valve cover gasket, & timing cover crank seal. Also replaced the belt & belt tensioner. I pulled the pin on the one tensioner & activated the other tensioner with a long screwdriver with the tip wrapped in duct tape. Everything was torqued to spec, & I did reconnect the sensor on the air box.

I've done all of the work on all our cars since I was a teen, & this seemed like an easy task, but it was time consuming. It took forever to get the cam sprocket marks to line up at 10 & 2, but the balance shaft chain was very simple. I had to move one of the camshafts a little here, a little there, to get the cam gear marks to line up. I know it's an interference engine, but I moved the cams slightly to get the cam gear marks to line up.

I will redo the job again, & as Old Blue suggested by removing the cams & rotate to tdc, then set the cam gears to 10 & 2. Or do u guys think it would be best to just get the cylinder head rebuilt?
Old Sep 16, 2024 | 07:21 PM
  #20  
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Baker street
You’re in the wrong thread.
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