Donbrew, I do apologize about not mentioning the radio. It looks almost identical to the factory so it was just overlooked. One tends to forget in 3 years at 51 years old.

This is the wire harness I used when I put the radio in 3 years ago
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120LCL...Interface.html

It was pretty straight forward. Everything was color coded and labeled on the Kenwood radio and you just match up the colors. and I soldered the connection, did not crimp them. The radio works like it should. Stays on after you turn the key off but shuts off when you open the door just like the factory. Will not come back on unless you turn the key again. I would think there would have been issues off the bat.

Crutchfield says that harness kit no longer fits that car and there is a newer one. But the one i listed was the only one available back then.

Is the current draw I listed enough to be killing the battery or is it acceptable. does it warrant the PITA removal of the radio to investigate?

 

Evidently, the electrical problems started around the same time as the radio install.
There is one review complaining about battery drain.
The web page does not say "doesn't fit" it says "no longer available". The circuit is generic, they switched suppliers.

I ask again, any Check Engine Light codes? Some of the tests run engine off until passed.

 

There are no check engine lights and no codes on scanner.

If its coming from the radio, and I disconnect the power to the radio by removing the harness, in theory wouldn't that make the draw go away if I hook a meter back to battery again?

 

It might be the module that is causing a problem.

 

I'm going to unplug just that part when I get time and go harness by harness while having the meter on.

I'm assuming we are in agreement that .17 amps is drawing too much. That's 170 milliamps correct?

So basicallybthe battery is in a constant state of drain and charge. That in itself wrecks a battery.

 

Unhooked radio and also the chime interface today. The draw was still there. Noticed after about 30 mins the multimeter was at zero. The connection was not lost either.

How long does it take for this car to go to sleep? I don't think i'm waiting long enough. Wondering if the draw is normal because car isn't asleep.

I remove pins in the door jams and flip the striker on the rear hatch which eliminates the dome lights. Once the dome light fades out I was assuming the car went to sleep but that's obviously not the case.

If it's a parasitic draw then it would be there all the time even after car goes to sleep, correct?

 

The RAP circuit is active for 10 minutes after key off. Perhaps your RAP relay is sticking? #32 interior fuse block.

 

The RAP is active until the key is removed and the driver door is opened then closed. That is for the radio and door locks.
The interior light dimming is separate from the RAP.
The EVAP testing runs after the engine is shutdown.
The auto headlights turn off after a few minutes.
Both "cig lighters" are always on.
I found that Tricking the RAP to listen to the radio runs the battery down in 15-20 minutes.
Have you made sure the brake lights go off?

 

yes, they go off. The battery isn't even 3 years old but it's an Everstart Maxx from walmart. Never had any problems with it till now. It's still under warranty but the heck if I know where the receipt is at.

Im thinking I'm just gonna throw another battery in and see what happens. I'm out of time and ideas. We know for sure the battery is shot. Maybe it just went bad because it was time. Don't know!

It's been hot as you know what!!

So basically, if you hook up a meter before any of these systems shut down you're going to see a draw obviously and I'm starting to feel like that's whats going on.

 

I think we can wrap this up. When I got home I set the meter back up by connecting me leads to the negative clamp and post in a way so they wouldn't lose contact after disconnecting the negative cable. Did this while the car was running. Flipped striker on rear hatch but left open. Shut car off, turned lights off auto and took keys out and shut the doors. Went out 30 mins later and took negative cable off while meter leads still on both ends. No readings at all on meter.

I put cable back on battery and opened car doors to trigger dome light. While door still open, I remove negative cable once again but leads still connected. I can see the dome light draw on the meter. Just a little over 2 amps. Now I close the car door and as the dome lights fade off the reading on meter falls off too down to 0.15a on the 10a setting. Check it on the 200m setting (which I thought was milliamps) and its at 1.5ma.

I literally stood there for 10-15 mins staring at the meter and it finally dropped to zero and I didn't move the leads at all or disturb anything. So, it appears the system goes to sleep, I'd guess the dome light circuit. It doesn't look like any kind of parasitic drain.

If its only 1.5ma on the meter, that's way below whats allowed anyways. But every video online takes the .15a reading and converts it to 150ma but literally the milliamp setting says 1.5ma
I am very confused if this amount is actually over the allowed spec or under. Guess it doesn't matter because it goes away anyways.

I've posted enough and problaby driving everyone nuts including myself.

Next challenge is getting Wal-Mart to replace the battery without a receipt.