After all these years that we are driving our HHRs, is there a consensus as to why front rotor warping occurs, who is affected and how it could be avoided?

- The first time I encountered the steering wheel shaking during braking was at about 70’000 km (unless the previous owner had the rotors replaced).
- Had the factory front rotors replaced with Powerstop rotors (and changed to SS size with the SS-sized brackets). Got the shaking back after less than 20’000km.
- Had them replaced with Raybestos heavy duty rotors and had the rear drums changed to Brembo disc rotors. Got the shaking back after about 30’000km.
- Had them replaced with coated AC Delco front rotors. Got the shaking back after about 40’000km.

This shaking/warping issue was new to me. I never had this with previous cars I had driven. I always check the torque on the lug nuts. I also don't ride the brake or brake exessively hard. At least I like to think so. I drive a combination of highway/city to and from work, but we also drive to the moutains for skiing or hiking every now and then. I use the engine brake (manual trans, 2008 2.4 LT ) as much as possible.

Typically the shaking would start to be noticable far earlier than when I finally replaced the rotors. It seems to get continually worse up until a certain point, after which it doesn’t seem to get worse anymore.

The shaking is most pronounced when braking at speeds above 80 kmh while only slightly applying the brakes. The shaking can be suppressed by applying the brake rather hard, which of course is not always possible. I can feel the warping also when coming to a slow stop while slightly applying the brakes. In those cases, the car doesn’t stop smoothly, but more like in a regular rhythm (like less braking / more braking).

- Are there any recommendations regarding new rotors/pads (preferably available on Rockauto)? A good compromise regarding stopping power, noise, dust and rust resistance? I cannot use slotted/drilled rotors as the car wouldn’t pass inspection with sporty looking rotors.

- Would some kind of air duct thing for cooling the brakes be helpful?

- Is there a good guide available for changing the rotors oneself (I prefer written guides to videos)? It doesn’t seem to be too complicated, but I have never done it myself. One point which still eludes me: some articles mention to push back the brake cylinder before putting on the rotors, others don’t.

 

Brake shake in the LS/LT models is not the front brakes but the rear drum brakes not adjusted correctly.
sometimes the front lower control arm bushings can contribute to the shake if they are worn.

 

Oldblue. His post says he changed the rear drums to the SS rotor set up.

 

Yes, I read that. I posted a general cause for brake shake. In this case of 4 wheel disc brakes, the worn lca bushings and other suspension parts may hold the clue.

as for doing your own brakes, it’s pretty easy. You’ll need a 14 mm socket or wrench a brake piston pushing device, a c clamp or slip lock pliers will do the guide pins need to be lubed , yours maybe worn out.


https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/brak...ard-hhr-42938/

 

I haven't had any brake rotor problems since I switched to the CENTRIC brand on all of my vehicles more than 10 years ago.

Like most rotors, these are also made in China, but I have never had any issues at all.

My wife is very hard on brakes & it seemed like her car needed rotors every year. LOL
I was able to get 3 years out of rotors on her cars once I made the switch to CENTRIC.

I've been using very lightweight Centric Honda rotors on my HHR SS, also for more than 10 years with no issues.

https://www.centricparts.com

Now my wife has a Rav4 Hybrid, so the rotors/brakes never need to be changed for the life of the vehicle.
Toyota Hybrids are amazing.
No starter
No alternator
No serpentine belt
No transmission, ( It has a power split device with nothing to wear, no clutches or bands, just planetary gear sets controling the engine & 2 electric motors)
It is AWD with an electric motor in the back that has no mechanical connection to the front, & mostly just makes juice for the battery.
Never have to replace the rotors/brakes, (after a trip I can touch the rotors & they are stone cold, as the electric motors do the braking while making juice for the battery)
No brake dust on the wheels as the electric motors do the braking.
Super good gas mileage
Has both port injection & direct injection like the Corvette ZL1
Super thin 0w-16 oil for better gas mileage, & 10,000 miles oil changes

 

These types of problems are not unique to HHR's. Many makes have many shakes.

 

Yes, we know, Greg, but some fixes particular to the Delta chassis is good to know.
I have a PowerStop rear drum kit and LUK SS non Brembo 11.6 inch rotors up front with PowerStop ceramic pads, no brake shake at all. I clean the shoe and drum surface every 6 months and adjust the rear drum brakes every oil change.
other have different brands and different results.
I did experience a brake shake like condition last fall it was ball joints and inner tie rods , then .

 

Thanks for all the input. I think I may give the Centric brakes a try. Would that be a good combination?
Centric rotors
Centric brake pads

 

Try them and let us know. As I suggested change the caliper slide pins and hardware.

 

Hardly anyone checks runout of installed rotors. A rotor can be perfect, but if the mounting surface runs out, due to corrosion, damage, defect, whatever, so will the rotor.

Improper lug nut torque can contribute, depending on the car.